Winter Cliff Top Walk

In a bid to walk off some Christmas excesses, we braved the wintery weather on Boxing Day and headed for the Sussex Heritage Coast in southern England, between the towns of Eastbourne and Seaford, to see the finest example of unprotected chalk cliffs in Britain.

After an easy 2-hour drive from Surrey, we pulled into Seaford, an original Victorian seaside town with an unspoiled coastline, big skies and stunning seascapes.

From Cuckmere Haven, a flat path along the Cuckmere River with its wide meanderings will lead you to the distant sea. Bracing ourselves against the blustery 10°C headwinds, we opted for the Park trail alternating between grass and concrete path. Diverting up a small hill, we went through a gate along the South Downs Way, to get a good view of the meandering river and the Haven.

Going up the gently sloping grassland dotted by grazing sheep, we passed by other day trippers, and hikers, including some with dogs.

Despite the exertions, I still felt cold. At the cliff top, the very windy and chilly air blowing in from the sea kept dislodging my hat and scarf. You lose a lot of body heat when your head and neck are uncovered.

Facing the open sea, we were presented with an amazing view of the beach and lagoons on the west. Across the lagoons, perched at the top of the cliff lies the coastguard cottages.

Stretching out before us on the east, is a series of undulating humps that make up the Seven Sisters.

Cliff Top Walk
Located at a glorious stretch of completely unspoilt coast, the Seven Sisters are a wavy series of 500-footer cliff-edge summits with dry valleys in between. In total, there are 8 hills with 7 dips in between. Each has a slightly different style – some are steep and high, some are gentle and low.

Standing on the first and tallest sister ‘Haven Brow’ at 253 feet (77 meters), we had a choice of easy saunters lasting half an hour to more demanding explorations taking up most of the day.

The cliff top walk to Birling Gap and onwards to Beachy Head would take approximately 3 hours for a return trip, passing the rest of the sisters – Short Brow, Rough Brow, Brass Point, Flagstaff Point, Bailey’s Brow and Went Hill Brow.

In winter, the days are short and gets totally dark at 4pm. As it was already past 1.30pm, we decided to walk to Birling Gap (4.5km), and be picked up from there for the journey home.

The sun came out just as we headed down the first valley. The South Downs Way runs along the edge of the cliff, between the coastline of sheer cliffs and the beautiful rolling downland that is home to working farms with paddocks and stables. We passed several paddocks of sheep and we went through many stiles. We were careful to latch it back securely before continuing our way.

Going up the undulating terrain can be rather strenuous and there always seem to be more than seven sisters to conquer. After the third hump, we were at Crowlink, a tiny hamlet right in the middle of the Seven Sisters cliffs that offers a 400-year-old farmhouse as a holiday home.

Maintaining an easy pace, I soon warmed up and felt hot for a change. Having worn multiple layers as protection against the elements, I unzipped the outer layer to let some air in, to cool down. I did not remove any layers as the wind was constantly blowing.

Disappearing wonder
Found at the point where the South Downs meets the sea, the Seven Sisters were created when ancient rivers cut valleys into the chalk, creating seven peaks. Beachy Head lies on the east of the Sisters and is the highest chalk sea cliff in England, at an astounding 530 feet (161 meters).

Every year, the Sisters are being nibbled away by 30 or 40 centimetres, as the wild forces of the sea create unusual chalk platforms and huge heaps of gleaming white chalk. Unlike the cliffs in Dover, the unprotected Seven Sisters and Beachy Head cliffs remain a bright white colour due to natural erosion.

Visitors are advised not to walk too close to the crumbly edge which is liable to collapse. Keeping a safe 5 metres distance from the edge is recommended. 

Runner’s High
For adrenaline junkies, the Seven Sisters is an inspiring training ground to run, hike or bike. The challenging up and down hills along the dramatic cliff ridden coastline guarantees a runner’s high, amidst a scenic landscape where the downs fall into the sea.

As I panted my way up a hump, a runner passed me from behind and powered to the top of the rise. From the opposite direction, I saw a cyclist wheeling down easily to the valley and then pedal furiously uphill. At the stile crossings, he would hoist the bike over the fence before proceeding on his way again. Strong arm muscles is a bonus.

The Seven Sisters is part of the Coastal Trail Series which challenges runners to race in four categories  – 10K, half marathon, full marathon and Ultra. Organised annually, the strenuous up / down race involves a mix terrain of grass, chalk and forest.

About Seven Sisters  
The Seven Sisters is a series of chalk cliffs by the English Channel formed over a 30 million year period when the whole area was under the sea. Together with Beachy Head beauty spot, they are part of a magnificent stretch of coastline that is designated and protected as a 'Heritage Coast'. 

Situated in the South Downs National Park, it is set within the Seven Sisters Country Park comprising of 280 hectares of chalk cliffs, meandering river valley and open chalk grassland.    

Bounded by the coast, the Cuckmere and a road, the Seven Sisters Country Park is a great place to explore on foot, by bicycle or by canoe, particularly along the spectacular meanders of the Cuckmere River. The area has a long and interesting history, including some fascinating shipwrecks, which can be discovered via a series of shorewalks. 

The Visitor Centre is situated in an 18th century barn, and provides useful information on the Park with displays and exhibitions. There is also a shop with leaflets, maps and souvenirs on sale.