I first visited Siem Reap in 2001. I returned 15 years later to participate in the Angkor Wat International Half Marathon (AWHM) on 4 December 2016.

The idea of running through the ruins of Angkor Wat was irresistible. The flat course allayed anxieties of not completing the race, allowing me to truly savour the novelty of trodding on 9 centuries of history – the sprawling, carved ruins of a once-great civilization.

Race Day
The run site is a 40-minute Tuk Tuk ride, boasting a rare traffic jam at 5.30am as participants converged there en-masse. The authorities were pro-active, diverting the sunrise tour groups to a different access via the back entrance.

Heading south as the sky gradually brightened, the first 8km follows the curve of the moat that surrounds Angkor Wat, branching right for a U-turn loop at KM3 before continuing east. The beautiful forested course is lined by trees and open fields on both sides. Finally, at KM9, I spotted my first ancient temple as I passed a small circuit of temples before turning left at the ancient pool of Srah Srang and Banteay Kdei temple.

My excitement picks up from here on, as I approach the back entrance of Ta Prohm (made famous by Lara Croft), peeking inside while curious tourists return my stares. The views get more interesting and I am torn between stopping for photos and the burning desire to discover the next temple ruin lurking at the next corner.  

I barely felt the 5km distance as I made my way through Takeo, Ta Prohm, Taney, Thamanon and Chausey Tevada with camera perpetually ready at ‘point and shoot’ mode. 

When the towering Victory Gate of Angkor Thom loomed into view, the magical experience intensified giving me a fresh spurt of energy to reach first to the Elephant Terrace, Baphoun and finally the centrepiece – Bayon at KM17.

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With the sun fully up, I started feeling the heat as I took the larger loop around the Bayon towards South Gate. Emerging on the other side, waiting photographers captured the perfect AWHM shot of runners with the iconic structure in the background. I could not resists a shot of the South Gate’s 12 guardians (Gods) and corresponding devils.

Now just 2 km from the finish line, and feeling that I had played tourist long enough, it was time to push for the finish. My resolve was foiled when I saw these gentle giants and their handlers.  

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The last km was a struggle and I was glad to be done. Joining the hive of activity were tourists and local children who followed me around, hoping to inherit any post-race goodies that I may not want. I kept the medal and HP armband but gave away the rest.

The AWHM was awesome, taking me on a route to see portions of the temples complex that I would have missed otherwise. It is well organised, the route is clearly marked, water and food stations adequate, with a unique ambience of its own.

A unique feature is the wheelchair category for landmine victims. I had a chance to see them up close, and they were enthusiastic, happy, and encouraging each other on. Runners were also helping out, by taking turns to push them from behind. Such a lovely sight.