The Four Wonders of Mount Huangshan, China

Located in the heart of Anhui Province, Mount Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) consists of massive granitic boulders and ancient pine trees emerging through a perpetual  sea of clouds.

Intrigued by the four wonders of pine trees, oddly shaped rocks, sea of clouds and hot springs, we planned a 2D/1N trip to Mt. Huangshan in 2011 to see the magnificent natural scenery. We also got a taste of the unexpected, experiencing two seasons in less than 48 hours.

We went up in summer and came down in winter.  

This dramatic landscape includes formations of natural stone pillars, grotesquely-shaped rocks, waterfalls, caves, lakes and hot springs, formed by its complex geological history.  The area features numerous imposing peaks, 77 of which exceed an altitude of l,000 m, with the highest, the famous Lianhua Peak (Lotus Flower Peak), reaching up to l,864 m.

Though it was after the Golden week, long queues, rude locals and blaring microphones were the norm.

Despite arriving and securing our cable car tickets at Yungu Cableway by 7.30am, we queued for forty minutes for a ride that lasted all of 8 minutes. Even then, our party of five was split into 3 cars.

It is possible to walk up, though the route is less scenic and puts you back by 3 – 4 hours. I do recommend taking the cable car, as it saves time and energy, to better enjoy the hike and highlights of the mountain top, of which there will be plenty.

At the top, from White Goose Ridge (1,300m) we continued the upward journey on foot to Pai Yun Hotel with frequent stops to admire and photograph the beautiful scenery of awe-inspiring peaks, deep ravines, granite columns and sea of clouds. I would rate Mt Huangshan as a moderate to strenuous trek. Walking is easy, on paths paved with flat stones, albeit hugging cliff walls at dizzying heights.

If you have no fear of heights, you will enjoy clambering up the numerous peaks’ lookout points, of which the top three rises 1800m above sea level.  Traveling from east to west, you will pass by Brush Pen Peak, Lion Peak, Cloud Dispelling Pavilion, Begin-to-Believe Peak, Flying Stone, Bright Summit Peak.

Be sure to do the West Sea Canyon – a 2.5 to 3-hour walk with 2 small loops (1st ring & 2nd ring) that takes you down to the valley and up again. A trekking pole here is handy as there are a zillion steps, narrow rock openings and steep inclines both ways. 

While on the strenuous side, the lure of something interesting to see will keep you going.  The reward system of ‘small discoveries’ such as jutting rocks, shimmering pools, stone figures, temples or arched bridges suspended between pinnacles, makes the effort of getting there worthwhile.

That night, winter set in. Our 4am trek to Bright Summit to catch the sunrise was abandoned when rain started well before dawn. By 9am, we bundled up and braved the wintry conditions. Raincoats and shoe covers (to keep your shoes dry) can be easily bought at the hotel.

The 3-hour walk to Yuping Cableway can only be described as MISERABLE. Cold, wet, slippery and buffeted by strong winds from all sides, the westward journey was further compounded by poor visibility when the mists descended.  Nevertheless, it afforded mystic views of peaks poking through an ocean of clouds.

The entrance fee is valid as long as you do not leave the scenic area. So you can stay as long as you like and explore every inch of the mountain at leisure. Mind you, accommodation is not cheap with rooms starting at RMB900 (USD127) upwards for a night. In summer, there is the option to rent a tent at RMB250 (USD35), or get a bed dormitory style. Food too, costs more the higher up you are on the mountain, as all supplies are hand carried up here. 

The cableways are located at different entrances (Northern / Southern Gate) depending on your access point. From Tangkou Town via the Southern Gate, the most popular route is to go up Yungu and descend via Yuping cableway, while Taiping Cable Car is available for visitors entering from Northern Gate.

Tip: Carry a day pack with essentials (only) for the overnight stay. I saw some tourists hauling their luggage bag, and I can assure you, they did not look happy.

Our hotel in Tangkou made all the arrangements, including side trips to Emerald Valley, Hong Cun ancient water village and Qian Dao Hu before returning us to Hangzhou for our flight home.

Ticket Price for Cable car
Single Trip TicketMar – NovDec – Feb
Yungu (Cloud Valley)CNY 80 (USD 12)CNY 65
Yuping (Jade Screen)CNY 90 (USD 13)CNY 75
TaipingCNY 80 (USD 12)CNY 65
Xihai (West Sea Valley)CNY 100 (USD 14)CNY 80
Park Entrance Fee CNY 230 (USD 33) CNY 150

Just like the Longji Rice Terraces, Mount Huangshan changes with the seasons, presenting different yet spectacular views all year round. A definite thumbs up from me and I would not rule out a second visit.

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