When I announced my intention to visit Nepal that included a 10-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, I was not prepared for reactions like “You are going solo? You are NUTS, is that safe?”

Despite horror tales of altitude sickness, lack of bathrooms while trekking, aneuryms and what nots, I stayed resolute, carried on with my travel preparations and embarked on my solo adventure armed with hiking gear, warm clothing and medication for all manner of ailments.

For added security, I engaged a guide and a porter, which turned out to be a luxury, as I soon discovered. I met many other solo travelers carrying heavier backpacks, armed with just a map.

That said, I decided to go through an agency – Himalaya Heart Treks & Expedition, recommended by Mukthi, a Nepali guard at my workplace in KL. Coincidently, he was due for his annual holiday in Nepal, and was at the airport to meet me when I arrived. His elder son worked at the Kathmandu Hotel I stayed in, and his younger son accompanied me on my sightseeing tour of Kathmandu, post trek.

ABC – Here I come
The journey to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) starts with a 4–hour flight from KLIA to Kathmandu. Arriving at noon allowed me sufficient time to meet and finalise travel arrangements with Anil, my guide, change some local currency and suss out the shops for souvenirs. 

An early start the next day saw me boarding the tourist bus for a 6-hour road trip (30 minutes by flight) to Pokhara, a popular starting point to a variety of activities.

207 kms on and more encounters with crazy drivers than I care for, I rumbled into this delightful lakeside city shortly after 3pm. From here on, there are numerous starting points : a 2-hour walk from Phedi or 45-minute road drive to Nayapul.

The final preparation was organising my Trekking permit and rental gear – down jacket and down sleeping bag, with Anil’s help. I invested in a trekking pole as well, which proved invaluable on the way down.

My trek to Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) was spread out over 10 days – 7 days up and 3 days down. April is the second best season (for trekking, after October) and the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek is one of the most scenic ones with the added attraction of rhododendrons in full bloom.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek – GoingSoloNepal
30 March – 8 April

Day 1 – Nayapul –> Tikhedhunga (1960m / 3 hours)
Day 2 – Tikhedhunga –> Ghorepani (2850m / 5 hrs)
Day 3 – Ghorepani –> Tadapani (2590m / 4 hrs) via Poon Hill (3210m)
Day 4 – Tadapani –> Chhomrung (2340m / 6 hrs)
Day 5 – Chhomrung –> Bamboo (2335m / 4 hrs )
Day 6 – Bamboo –> Deurali (3100m / 5 hrs)
Day 7 – Duerali –> Annapurna Base Camp (4130m / 4 hrs)
Day 8 – Annapurna Base Camp –> Sinuwa (2340m / 9 hrs)
Day 9 – Sinuwa –> Jinudanda (1760m / 5 hrs)
Day 10 – Jinudanda –> Nayapul (6 hrs) –> Pokhara (45 mins drive)

The ABC route is a leisurely 4-5 hour average trek per day starting from lowland villagers, rice terraces to deep forests of oak, pine, bamboo and rhododendrons to snow-clad ridges and gorges. As the trail passes through fascinating traditional villages of Nepal’s ethnic communities – Gurung, Magar, and Thakali, a tea-house is never more than 2 hours apart.

Rooms are basic with narrow bed (mattress, pillow, blanket), no heating or light. Travelers usually gather in the dining area with stove for added warmth. One tea-house had a blanket wrapped around the dining table with hot coals underneath. We would sit with our legs beneath the blanket to enjoy the heat. Alternatively, when kerosene is used, the fumes can be overpowering. Travelers are charged NP100 for the heating.

Day 1 : Nayapul – Tikhedhunga (1960m / 3 hrs)
Finally, it was time to test my fitness level after a 45-minute drive to Nayapul. Being relatively fresh, I walked at a comfortable pace mainly on a gravel jeep track above the rushing Modi river. I soaked in the surroundings and observed people engaged in their daily activities.

All visitors to Annapurna Conservation Area are required to get a Trekking permit and check-in and -out at regular checking stations. Birethani was my first ACAP and TIMS checkpoints. As I passed trekkers on their way out, it occurred to me that their adventure was at an end, while mine was only just beginning. I couldn’t help wondering if their expectations were met. 

The ‘road’ took us through many tea-houses where one can stop for a refreshing drink and meal. After about 2 hours it started to rain, despite this being the dry season. We donned on our plastic sheets and quickly ducked into a tea-house for lunch while waiting for the rain to stop before continuing.

Upon arrival at Tikhedunga, I was immediately shown to my room with my belongings already safely inside. Arriving ahead of me, Krishna my porter had checked-in on my behalf. Anil showed me where the bathroom and toilets were located and by 4 pm, I was smelling of roses again after a rejuvenating hot shower. Feeling adventurous, I decided to savour some local cuisine, and found the dhal bhat (rice, lentils, veggies and spicy pickle) with chicken curry delightful. After dinner, Anil took my breakfast order and briefed me on the next day’s plan.

And that set the tone for the next 9 days – rise by 6am, breakfast, trek at 8am, lunch at 12pm, arrive tea-house by 2pm, dinner at 6pm, sleep at 8pm. This was a total lifestyle change for me – eating and sleeping with clockwork precision. 

Having a guide & porter ensured my meals and accommodation were taken care of, which meant I just needed to sort myself out each day and focus on the trek. Despite April being the dry season, it rained every afternoon, so we opted for an early start to reach our destination before the heavens open. This we managed most days and the one day we didn’t, Krishna who had gone on ahead, backtracked to pass us our raincoats. That was so thoughtful of him and beyond my expectations.

Anil and Krishna were model guide and porter. Anil stayed with me the entire trek while Krishna in addition to carrying my load, goes ahead to secure a room with my stuff waiting for me when I arrive.

Day 2 : Tikhedhunga – Ghorepani (2850m / 5 hrs)
Forewarned by Anil, I began the 2-hour climb up the seemingly endless 3767-step stone staircase enroute to Ghorepani cautiously. While at times taxing, it was manageable and once past Ulleri, the trail turned gradual with short uphill stretches.

With temperatures in the low teens, as long as I was walking I did not feel cold. The trail took us through tropical forests with mossy, gnarly roots and a first glimpse of rhododendrons in full bloom.

As it was the dry season, the waterfall had a small flow. What was interesting were rock cairns littering both sides of the banks, depicting friendship.

Day 3 : Ghorepani – Tadapani (2590m / 4 hrs) via Poon Hill (3210m)
From Ghorepani, the highlight is a side trip to Poon Hill to catch 360° views of the Annapurna Range at sunrise. Snugly wrapped up from head to toe, with a torch and my trusty trekking pole, I started the climb in the dark shortly after 5am. Spotting a viewing tower at the summit an hour later, I immediately climbed another 15m for an all-encompassing view of the Annapurna range.

If not for the biting cold, I could have gazed at the more than 17 snowcapped peaks of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and other parts of western Nepal longer.

Instead, we headed back for breakfast at the Hill Top tea-house before resuming the day’s trek. The route took us across ridges, with a punishing uphill and then down a forested canyon before arriving at Tadapani.

Day 4 : Tadapani – Chhomrung (2340m / 6 hrs)
This was a strenuous trek with a long steep descent down the dense and dark forest. The route passes through the west bank of the Modi Khola on narrow mountain trails, through paddy fields and ascends through terraced hillsides of wheat & barley. Down the valley to the village of Chuile only to start climbing steeply again to Chhomrung, a beautiful village located on the lap of giant Annapurna massive.

My knees were hurting and I was more than ready to call it a day at Chhomrung, wanting only to clean up and vegetate before and after dinner. I politely declined the urging of two South African ladies to explore the charming hillside town, as I didn’t feel up to dealing with any more steps.

Day 5 : Chhomrung – Bamboo (2335m / 4 hrs)
More refreshed the next morning, I had the energy to explore the village life in Chhomrung, peeking into the school with wooden tables and benches.

The trek once again started with a descent, in full view of the immediate ascent, which would take all of 1.5 hours to Sinuwa (2340m).

On the way down, I was distracted by an approaching donkey train, that reached me in no time at all, despite the incline. I was suitably impressed.

Here, Anil got wind that tea houses at Doban and Himalaya were full, and suggested to make camp at Bamboo. That night, I shared a triple room with a German and American girl. We decided to team up for the rest of the trek to increase our chances of securing rooms at future tea houses.

Day 6 : Bamboo – Deurali (3100m / 5 hrs)
Well rested, our party of three had an early start, passing through Doban (2505m) and Himalaya (2920m) navigating alongside the river, crisscrossing on rickety bridges as we punched through more gnarly forests. Our first glimpse of the twin peaks of Machhapuchhre (Fish tail) mountain, against the clouds was an awesome sight.

As we pushed up and up to Deurali following the icy cold river to its source at ABC, the terrain turned rocky as the temperature continued to drop. The final approach to Deurali is pretty awesome, surrounded by rugged mountains and a waterfall running off a rock face.

Deurali is the last stop with electricity, so I made sure to charge up my camera for the next two days. It hailed and snowed shortly after we made camp. We were glad to be indoors – and huddled under blankets.

Day 7 : Duerali – Annapurna Base Camp (4130m / 4 hrs)
We woke up to a snow blanketed Deurali which started melting once the sun was up. Wasting no time, we were soon on our way to Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700m) and our final destination. The trail climbs gently through a river bed, rises steeply over the mountain side even as views of the majestic Machhapuchhare unfolds.

From MBC, after turning the first corner, Anil pointed at our target – the blue roof of ABC. We walked on snow the entire time, uphill and occasionally slippery, making it to ABC in two hours.

After lunch, it started snowing and got very cold. I sat wrapped in a blanket, shivering as I watched mainly porters and the occasional trekker arrive in the swirling snow. For this last leg and MBC, all items are carried up by porters, not animals.

Day 8 : ABC – Sinuwa (2340m / 9 hrs)         

Sunrise at ABC   -10C
The next morning, Anil banged on our doors at 5.30am to catch sunrise over the Annapurnas. In the rush to the viewpoint, I forgot my beanie which was not very smart as the temperature was -10C.

Surrounded by the Annapurna range ‘ring of mountains’, this massive amphitheatre is completed by a huge glacial basin at the base. As the sun rises, the towering peaks of the circle of white giants are illuminated gradually. The spectacular show of sun beams bouncing off the 7000m high peaks on all sides is best viewed between 6am – 10am, after which clouds move in, and it starts to snow.

Having witnessed one of the most amazing sunrise, we returned to our room, gathered our belongings and start the return journey. Just as we were about to leave, a helicopter landed, to transport 6 Japanese to Pokhara. The 15-minute ride includes a Mountain view flyover.

With the sun out for the first time in days, the trail back down to Machapuchare Base Camp was gorgeous in the sunshine. With fresh snow blanketing everything, I totally enjoyed the walk amidst amazing scenery no matter which way I looked. I slipped several times on the soft powdery snow, but it did not hurt. We made good time going down, and were ready for breakfast at MBC.

Anil’s target was to reach Sinuwa – 6-stops away and a good 9 hours trek. Enroute to Deurali, the snow created interesting formations, with 2-foot long icicles spotted on overhangs. With the sun out, the going got treacherous as the melting snow turned sludgy, making the trail slippery and wet.

Hearing avalanches on the deep gorge in the fortress of mountains between Machhapuchhre and Hiunchuli, Claudia urged me to pick up the pace so that we could get past the avalanche chutes as quickly as possible.

We kept up the pace, passing Himalaya, Doban and Bamboo, making the final push up to Sinuwa. There we rewarded ourselves with a hot shower, going to bed almost immediately after dinner.  

Day 9 : Sinuwa – Jinudanda (1610m – 5 hrs)
After yesterday’s 9-hour trek, Claudia and I slept 9 hours straight and started out only at 8am (for a change).

On the way to Chhomrung, I was not only reminded of the endless steps up then down, but acutely felt every single one of them. It was slow going for me, as I had blisters on both heels, squashed toes and painful knees. I also realised the folly of not trimming my toe nails sufficiently short. The lengthy walks made my feet expand. Suffice to say, the nail bit painfully into the neighbouring toes, and post trek, 2 toe nails dropped off.

(left) Single stretch with 240 steps (right) Boys and their loads

Having dropped substantial elevation to Jinudanda, we could finally dispense with our down jackets, enjoying the warmer climate. Gathering our bathers, we joined a Dutchman and a Danish mother and daughter, trekking 20 minutes down to the Natural hot springs.

Day 10 : Jinudanda – Nayapul (6 hrs) – Pokhara (45 mins drive)
For the final trek to Nayapul, I chose thick socks with open sandals over my uncomfortable Doc Martens. The painkillers I popped the night before took effect, and I was able to walk relatively pain free.  

Taking a loop rather than back tracking, we passed New Bridge (1340m) and Syalibazaar (1190m), encountering livestock (chicken, duck, goat, buffalo, cow) and a modern bridge crossing.

From New Bridge, we headed downstream following the river on the opposite bank. Just outside of Birethani, the trail flattened out, tree-lined with lush greenery. We saw more locals going about their daily activities, carrying baskets and transporting all manner of items strapped to their backs.  

As the day wore on, it got hotter and very dry. I was happy to get back to Nayapul in the early afternoon, making it back to Pohkara in time to catch a glorious sunset.

Lessons Learnt – Post Trek
My left hand started swelling on the way down, due to being idle. I should have gotten a pair of trekking poles, instead of just one. To manage the swelling, I started using my left hand, switching back to my right whenever I got tired.

My feet were swollen for more than a week after my return to Malaysia, due to water retention. Doc Martens was a poor choice of footwear for me in terms of comfort, however it’s water resistant features ensured they were sufficiently dry for the distance, despite the daily wetting. I also did not have proper hiking pants, making do with jeans and thick cotton pants which were heavy and not so comfortable.

In conclusion, my decision to do ABC first was correct for me, as I was less fit then, and still found it very manageable. I was motivated to come back again and try something harder – Everest Base Camp?

The positives outweighed the negatives, I achieved my goals and along the way realised that I can be strong, mentally and physically when required.

Once I had committed to doing it alone, I was able to move forward, pushing the self-doubts aside. My solo adventure is a priceless experience of beautiful scenery, interesting people and modern hill life in Nepal. More importantly, I had the satisfaction of knowing that nothing is impossible when I put my heart in it.

I was better prepared for my next trip to Everest Base Camp (EBC), with proper hiking shoes, poles, thermals and gear.

For information on essential gear and packing list, see Useful Info and Tips