ROUTE UP 14 – 20 September 2014

DAY 1 – 14 Sept
The journey to Everest Base Camp starts with a 35 minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, an experience by itself. Built by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1964, this postage stamp airport sits on a hillside 2860m high, laying claim to having the highest and shortest runway (1,500ft) at a sloping angle.

Postage stamp airport : top of runway at left of plane

After a quick bite, it’s an easy 2 hour 45 minutes descent to Phakding (2660m) along the Dudh Kosi (River of Milk) on wide trails passing mani walls (rocks carved with Buddhist prayer inscriptions), yak trains, small villages and terraced hillsides.  I had my first dhal bhat (a local staple meal of rice, vegetable and lentils) that night.

Clockwise from left : School children walk 1 hour of mostly uphill, fast flowing foamy Dudh Kosi, Dhal bhat dinner.

DAY 2 – 15 Sept
Starting early the next morning, the trail continues north up the Dudh Kosi valley to Monjo (2850m), where it officially enters the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All trekkers need to check-in here to get a trekking permit. Shortly after, I came upon the most amazing sight. Not one but TWO ‘Indiana Jones’ suspension bridges. Of course I had to cross the vertigo challenging top bridge to experience the higher vantage point and swaying motion. The adrenaline high also signalled the beginning of a steep 2-hour hike up a dense pine forest.

Clockwise from top left : Permit issuing house for trekkers, Lower bridge for animals, Twin suspension bridges above the Dudh Kosi

After 6 hours we reached the trading town of Namche Bazaar (3440m), a collection of shops, tea houses, email cafés, nestled in a natural amphitheatre.

As we trudged up, we were welcomed by local children. Experiencing limited power with one hydro power station under repair, I paid NP300 (RM12) for a hot shower as the water had to be manually boiled.

DAY 3 – 16 Sept
Altitude sickness sets in from 3000m, so the next day was a rest day to acclimatise. The norm is to gain elevation and come back down again. I dutifully trekked up to the monastery, Everest View Hotel (3800m), visited the Edmund Hillary School in Khumjung (3790m) and passed the still-under-construction new airport, on the return trip.

Clockwise from top left : Sir Edmund Hillaary School, Children doing schoolwork, Khumjung village (3790m) and monastery (red roof)

DAY 4 – 17 Sept
By now, I had perfected the routine of rising at 6am, have breakfast, hit the road by 7.00am, hike for 5-6 hours, dinner at 6pm and snuggle into my sleeping bag at 8pm. The rooms gets smaller the higher you go while food and water gets more expensive.

The trek to Tengboche couldn’t have been more perfect. A beautiful morning of clear skies, my first glimpse of Mount Everest was just the beginning. Literally surrounded by mountains, Everest stays in view throughout the gently undulating, meandering trail that wound around the mountain side. It was a slow walk with frequent photo stops as the mountain views just keep getting better every time I turned a corner.

The trail then passes through a rhododendron forest before dropping steeply to Phunkitenga (3250m), our lunch stop beside a suspension bridge. The next 2 hours was a taxing 600m of slowly zigzagging up to Tengboche (3875m). Arriving after 5.5 hours, I decided to rest and save the Monastery visit for the next day. After dinner, Everest made a short appearance as the clouds parted, presenting us with an unobstructed view from the inside of our lodge.

The arduous zig zag path to Tengboche

DAY 5 – 18 Sept
The next morning, I bundled up, grabbed my camera and rushed outside only to realise it was not cold. I quietly soaked up the spectacular views and got my fill of nature’s wonder before silently slipping into the monastery’s prayer hall to observe the chanting monks morning ritual with bowed heads.

Clockwise from top left : Monastery at Tengboche, Daily chants 6.00 – 8.00am, Waking up to this view.

Today’s hike would take 6 hours with a lunch stop at Samara. The first part was an easy walk down the valley, passing scenic villages before crossing the river with the majestic Mt Ama Dablam (6856m) in the background. The gradual ascent above the Imja Khoola river to Pangboche (3930m in 3 hours 19 minutes) presented a different terrain now that we are above the tree line.

From left : Mt Ama Dablam ahead, Approach to Pangboche

My camera was busy capturing the contrasting landscape of rocky and open plains that brought me to Dingboche (4400m) two hours later. That night, I experienced mild symptoms of altitude mountain sickness and had no appetite.

Top Centre – trail to Dingboche (4400m)

DAY 6 – 19 Sept
Rest day at Dingboche turned out to be another arduous acclimatisation walk to Nangkartshang Peak (5100m). I found the going tough as it is a steep climb, dusty and very exposed to cold winds. Littering the trail were creatively stacked, precariously perched rock cairns, that somehow can withstand the strong winds and stormy weather. An hour and 45minutes later, I called it a day at 4800m, and made it back to the tea house an hour later. 

Way to Chukhung (left) to scale Island Peak (6000m)

DAY 7 – 20 Sept
A relatively short 4.5 hours walk along the valley floor on wide open pastures and farmland to Duglha(4620m), the base of the Khumbu glacier terminal moraines. The next uphill was daunting, with a forty-five degree incline that got steadily steeper. It had turned cold and misty, matching the  solemn line of cairns built in memory of fallen climbers over the last 50 years at Thukla Top.

I have scant recollection of the rest of the trip to Lobuche (4970m) beyond feeling tired, cold and miserable. I did not eat or sleep well that night.

Everest Base Camp / Kalapattar
Everest Base Camp – post summit
Getting There / Useful tips & Info