It’s a round trip. Getting to the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory…
Anonymous
Route Down 22 – 26 September
The trip down took just 4 days. After Kalapattar, from Gorakshep I just wanted to go down to thicker air, setting my sights on Pheriche at 4240m. Thirty minutes into the 2-hour walk to Lobuche, I knew without a doubt that I would not be going beyond Lobuche.
DAY 10 – 23 September
More rested, I started out walking easier. With the sun shining brightly, Thukla Top was totally transformed, offering expansive views of the valley and surrounding snowy mountain range.
Tombs in memory of fallen climbers on Everest in last 50 years
Beautiful day of fantastic sights
A quick descent to Dhukla and cresting the next rise, I could see Pheriche. However, it was to be another two hours of downhill brisk walking to get to the village.
This super windy one-mile stretch of valley floor is an incredible wind tunnel. Nearer the village, barley and potatoes fields enclosed by rock walls as protection against the cold winds were a constant sight.
I also had a chance to see the Pheriche Aid-post, the world’s highest medical clinic in the world, operated by the Himalayan Rescue Association since 1974.
Tapping solar energy
After lunch I continued to Tengboche clocking in a total of 6 hours walk through beautiful mossy forests.
DAY 11 – 24 September
The return trip to Namche Bazaar was an easy 4.5 hours culminating in my first shower in 8 days. My spirits continued to improve. We were dropping 1000m a day. My appetite returned. It was good to breathe in oxygen-rich air once again. I began taking an interest in my surroundings again.
Clockwise from top left : Stairway to monastery, Glamping – spacious with no less than 3 windows, Freshly dug potatoes, 5 yaks as porters for a group of 15
DAY 12 – 25 September
With EBC out of the way, it was like a heavy load had fallen off me. The route back to Phakding was so much more relaxed especially when re-crossing the gravity-defying suspension bridges.
Clockwise from top left : beast & burden in action, the art is in the stacking, yellow orange marigold, wonder what this is? red dahlia with caterpillar
The last hour to Lukla was a walk in the rain. Back in Lukla, the room was absolute luxury, spacious with en-suite bath. Saran (my guide) celebrated our final night in Everest region with after-dinner drinks.
DAY 13 – 26 September
The next morning, 4 planes managed to take off before the clouds descended, effectively closing the airport for the day. After some complicated negotiations, a 45-minute helicopter ride got me back to Kathmandu in the late afternoon. Another first (for me), the low altitude flight hovered on a sloping runway, taking off from a ‘helipad’ behind Lukla tea house, granted me an incredible bird‘s eye view of Nepal’s mountainous region and colourful rice terraces.
Note : I had to abandon a side trip to Gokyo Lakes via Cho La Pass after EBC, due to high altitude exhaustion and associated symptoms. Continuing on would mean a further 2 days of hard trekking at altitudes bordering on 5000m, on rocky, icy terrain including a glacial path. I still harbour hopes of seeing the Lakes and Gokyo Ri one day.
EBC Trek – Useful info & tips
- Getting there – Direct Flights via MAS, Nepal Air and Air Asi
- Visa can be obtained on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport
- Multiple entry 15 days – USD 25 (RM105)
- Multiple entry 30 days – USD 40 (RM168)
- Trekking Permits
- TIMS (Trekker Information Management System) – NP2000 (RM80)
- Sagarmatha National Park – NP3000 (RM120)
NB. Please bring along 4 passport sized photos for visa, trekking permit applications.
- Medical & Insurance Coverage
Make sure the coverage includes helicopter evacuation - Best time to trek – Oct / Nov followed by April / May
- Approximate Distance : 60km (Lukla to Everest Base Camp)
- Essentials for EBC Trek
- A good pair of hiking boots
- Good quality socks
- A wind cheater style jacket
- Long sleeve shirts
- Trekking pants
- Hat / Sun Block
- Rain coat
- Rubber sandals
- Travel towel
- Water bottles (heat proof & water tight)
- Gloves
- Price range
- 1L Water – Np100 to NP300 (RM4- 12)
- Dhal Bhat – NP200 to NP600 (RM8- 24)
- Battery Charge – NP200 to NP350 per hour (RM8 -14)
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