Mt Sinai by moonlight!

Mt Sinai may not have been on my bucket list, but when the opportunity presented itself, I grabbed it!

Even the fact that we’d be hiking at midnight in sub-zero temperatures and giving up one night’s sleep, did not deter me.

Visited December 2019

I would be following the footsteps of Moses, to the mountain where God appeared to him, giving him the Ten Commandments after forty days and forty nights at the peak.

As one of four scared mountains, Mount Sinai in the Sinai Peninsula is also called Mt. Horeb and Jebel Musa (‘Mountain of Moses’). It is a popular pilgrimage destination that includes the Monastery of St. Catherine and the Burning Bush, Elijah’s Plateau, and the Plain of ar-Raaha.

After dinner and a short rest, I bundled up snugly in readiness for the midnight hike. From our hotel, a 15-minute drive brought us to St Catherine’s Monastery and Hosni, our Bedouin guide for the next 7 hours.

Already feeling the chill at the security checkpoint, we duly cleared the metal detector, and took the gentler Camel Trail aka Lazy Trail.

As we meandered up the gradual incline of this wide zig-zag path, we were tailed by Bedouins offering camel rides at USD 25. The rationale is to conserve our strength for the energy sapping steps to the summit, which can only be done on foot from Elijah Hollow.

On the way up, we switched off our torches to reveal a star studded sky, many times. The absence of light pollution allowed us to experience many magical moments of unspoiled nature.

For the reasonably fit, the 4.15km camel trail can be achieved in 3 hours with regular rest stops at shelters that sells hot drinks and snacks. The huts higher up also provide blankets for those who wish to rest, while waiting for the group to return.

Marked by a spring pond, Elijah Hollow is where the alternative ‘Steps of Repentance’ route meets up for the start of the final 750 steps to the summit. Legend has it that the steeper direct path is a 3000-step staircase carved by a monk as repentance, hence the name.

It was 6C when we started. At 2065m, it dropped further with wind chills adding to my discomfort. It was still pitch dark as I started going up the uneven steep stone steps as it snaked its way up the side of the mountain. I reached the summit after a hard 40-minute climb. It was bitterly cold and windy.

At the 2285m peak, a small chapel dedicated to the Holy Trinity stands opposite an open mosque with Moses’ Cave beyond the chapel. We had the place all to ourselves as we were the first group there.

Unlike others, we were on a tight schedule, and would not be staying on for the sunrise. Mission accomplished just after 5am, we started making our way down. Along the way, we ‘collected’ those who opted to sit out and wait for our return.

Halfway down the 750 steps, we started bumping into groups hiking up in time for sunrise. Back on the camel trail, I was mesmerised by a thin line of orange piercing the dim blue sky. The glow of light continued to expand in the dawning sky, as we descend.

The Sinai Peninsula desert is a mountainous region with arid ‘Martian’ landscape, numerous barren peaks, sheer cliffs and rocky outcrops. Not a single blade of grass or tree can be seen in this harsh terrain.

Finally, after 6 hours of walking in the dark, I turned around and got my first look of Mt Sinai.

Initially guided by the shelter’s light, we were amazed to see the small hut dwarfed by high cliffs on both sides as the sky lightened.

The granite mountain with its craggy, harsh edges appears to change colours and hues as the sky brightens. The sun rays touches the peaks, turning them gold.

The walk down was pleasant as we could appreciate our surroundings better. We made our way down to the foot of Mt Sinai and St Catherine’s Monastery, which is located at the mouth of a gorge. I must admit the trail looked very different in the daytime.

St Catherine's Monastery
Built in the 6th century, around the traditional site of the burning bush encountered by Moses on the lower slopes of Mount Sinai, St. Catherine’s Monastery is one of the oldest working Christian monasteries in the world. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (2002) and the original gray granite walls are still intact.

Hosni, our Bedouin guide is simply amazing! He kept the group together and repeatedly jumped out in front, though I could have sworn he was at the back, helping the slower hikers. He speaks Bahasa too!

We headed back to our hotel for a quick breakfast and hot shower, before departing for Cairo. My nocturnal achievement left me ‘frozen’ for the better part of the day, thawing out only by late afternoon.

Jordan-Holyland-Egypt
Full Itinerary 29 Nov – 10 Dec 2019