Tuvkhon Monastery

Horse ride or hike?
This isolated hilltop monastery can only be reached by foot or horse, so be prepared to hike, absorb a bit of history, marvel at the stunning views and work up an appetite on the way down just in time for a picnic lunch in the middle of nowhere.

Tuvkhon Monastery sits at the top of the sacred Shireet Ulaan mountain, 2,312 m above sea level. Its location at the peak is unique as it resembles an easy chair with arm rests on either side.

Our Russian van (a loaf of bread) brought us to the foot of the mountain and from there we set off on foot. The hour long hike was uneventful and not overly taxing. An easy uphill on a moderate gradient, the walk was perfect for stretching our legs after a two-hour drive.

According to history, this unusual armchair-shaped peak among the ridges west of the Orkhon River first caught the attention of a 14-year old boy, in 1648. On his return in 1953, Zanabazar decided to build the monastery on this auspicious spot, surrounded by rocks and forests of larches.

A gifted sculptor, musician and painter, Zanabazar used the monastery as a personal retreat to live, work and meditate for the next 30 years.

Today, Zanabazar is renowned for developing the Soyombo script in 1686, as well as creating many of his famous philosophical works while residing here.

The monastery was destroyed in 1688 by Oirat Mongols and restored in 1773, only to sustain even more severe damage during the Stalinist purges of the late 1930s as Mongolia’s communist regime sought to eradicate Buddhism from the country.

Restored to their original appearance in 2001, a front gate, four temples and two stupas await visitors at the peak.

This ledge on the edge is a cool spot for breathtaking views of the Khangai mountain range and forests of larches.
It’s an easy climb up and over the fence.

If you have the time to wander around, do check out the prayer wheels, water wells, meditation caves and Zanabazar’s throne. For the more adventurous, take the path to the summit of the rock for not-to-be-missed 360° vistas.

Forests of Larches
The hike down was effortless. As we emerged from the dense forest, the view opened up to a picturesque panorama of larch trees against the steppe landscape.

Picnic in the middle of nowhere
Loathe to leave such beautiful surroundings, my desire to linger was fulfilled as Lhagvaa (our driver) had been busy preparing lunch while we were up at the Monastery.

Lunch was a jolly affair of good food, fellowship among friends, amazing scenery from all directions and fantastic memories to cherish. I will always remember this day as one of the most beautiful days I’ve ever experienced!

Tuvkhon Monastery 
Perched on a rocky mountain, 2312 metres above sea level at the top of the sacred Shireet Ulaan Uul stands one of Mongolia's oldest Buddhist monastery. It is located in the province of Ovorkhangai, in the sum of Bat Ulzii. 

First established in 1648 by the 14-year-old Zanabazar, he returned to build the monastery from 1651 - 1653, making it his home for the next 30 years. During that time, he created numerous Mongolian art masterpieces that are now on display in the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts.  

Two original temples and two stupas still stand today with additional temples built in the 18th century. The monastery resumed religious activities in 1992 while restoration of the monastery's grounds were completed in 1997. The monastery was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.

The good old ‘Loaf of Bread’ delivers
An off-road 4X4 van built for the most punishing environments, the Bukhanka is designed to travel on bad roads to distant locations with primitive maintenance facilities.

USSR-era Bukhanka (which is Russian for “loaf of bread”)

While the Russian Van admirably handled the rocky surface of protruding stones on the road from Orkhon Falls to Tuvkhon Monastery, the same could not be said for the passengers.

To spare ourselves a bumpy, bone-jarring ride, we walked the entire stretch of rocky road, past grazing yaks and goats before getting on again.

Thereafter, ‘the Loaf of Bread’ carried us safely through more hilly terrain with multiple stream crossings.

Until we got to the most rickety looking, about-to-collapse bridge. Again we alighted and proceeded on foot. Somehow the bridge was sturdy enough to withstand the weight of the 4X4.

The impromptu stop allowed us to capture amazing shots of the Orkhon Valley’s diverse landscapes.