On 23 December 2016, we were picked up from the hotel at 7.30am. Our F1 tuk tuk driver covered the 30km in half an hour, mercifully ending the bumpier-than-usual ride shortly after 8.00am. While I did not think that was his intention, we did have the park all to ourselves for the next 2 hours. So, not a bad trade-off.
Adorable Moon Bears
On the way in, we stopped at the Asiatic Black Bear (Moon Bear) Rescue Centre, which is home to 23 rescued bears (hunted for traditional medicine / restaurant trade / exotic pets).
Luckily for us, two of the bears were awake, fascinating us with their playful antics while the rest slumbered. Simply awesome!
Run by Free the Bears founded by Mary Hutton of Perth in 1995 “to protect, preserve, and enrich the lives of bears throughout the world”, the rescue centre was set up in 2003 along with similar sanctuaries in Cambodia and Vietnam.
On the way out three hours later, we were in time to see juvenile moon bears frolicking in a separate enclosure.
If you like what you see at this bear sanctuary, you can support its conservation effort via cash donation or buy a T-shirt.
Opens daily, Free entrance.
Tat Kuang Si
A short 5-minute walk later, we got our first glimpse of bright turquoise water gently tumbling over small limestone ledges. The first pool is open for dipping with change rooms and toilet nearby.
The azure waters are naturally so due to high deposits of white calcium carbonate from the surrounding limestone mountains.
Swimming is not allowed at all pools, so be sure to read the signs carefully.
We enjoyed 30 minutes of uninterrupted photo stops along the trail leading to the main fall with a 60-metre (200ft) cascade surrounded by lush green forest.
To get to the upper falls, start on the right and loop back down from the left side which is less steep.
At the top (20 minutes at moderate pace), the water is serenely clear with bamboo bridges across the numerous pools.
Activities at the Upper Falls
Tikma the boatman will take you to the water source (there and back in 15 minutes) for 10,000 Kip/USD1. Or you can swing off a rope into the refreshing cold water. Picnic tables and benches make this the ideal picnic spot. It’s also amazingly clean.
Before heading down, (if you have time) take the 3km trail to Phalesi Cave and nearby spring water. Entrance fee to cave is 10,000 Kip/USD1 (includes torch rental).
The way down on the left trail (15 mins), entails walking down steps that overflow with water during the wet season. We just managed to stay dry by side-stepping the wet portions.
With the sun out, the main falls was transformed into multi-shades of blue as it flowed downstream into the pools below.
Tour groups had arrived, with many already in the water.
Food stalls had tables set for ‘lunch with a view’ beside the main falls.
Set aside at least 4 hours to truly enjoy this beautiful place. Bring a change of clothes for after swimming in the cold yet irresistible waters.
Getting There
It’s incredibly easy to organise a trip to Kuang Si Falls. A tuk tuk driver ‘found’ us at the morning market and within 30 minutes, the price, date & time had been agreed upon.
Open Daily : 8.00am - 5.30pm Entry Fee : 20,000 Kip (USD 2.20) Tuk Tuk varies by group size : 50,000 - 80,000 Kip (USD 5.40 - 8.70) Private car (11-seater) : 230,000 Kip (USD 25) Motorbike hire : 110,000 - 150,000 Kip (USD 12 - 16)
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