Madaba – the City of Mosaics

Arriving in Amman, Jordan on the morning of 29 November 2019, we immediately got on the bus for the 30-minute drive from Queen Alia International Airport to Madaba and the start of our tour.

Located 30km south of Amman, on the 5,000-year old King’s Highway, the mosaic-filled city of Madaba is home to the famous 6th century Mosaic Map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land.

This very walkable city is ideal for stretching the legs (after sitting in an airplane for 11 hours) while discovering and learning the historical significance of the impressive Byzantine mosaics found at famous landmarks and churches located around the city.

It earns its place on the map of the world today with a map of the world from yesterday: one of the oldest maps of the Holy Land, built out of two million pieces and embedded in the floor of the Saint George Greek Orthodox Church.
Inside the travel Lab

1. Saint George Greek Orthodox Church
Built in 1896 AD, over the remains of a much earlier 6th century Byzantine church, this small church is best known for the spectacular mosaic which is preserved on its floor.

Though the mosaic map was first discovered in 1884, its unique character was only recognised in 1896, after the new Greek Orthodox Church of St George had been built over it.

This treasure of early Christianity was crafted in AD 560, with over two million vividly coloured stones to form mountains, landscape and livestock.

Using a palette of coloured stones and glass, the unknown artist ingeniously depicted biblical locations, regional names and events, labelling them with 157 inscriptions in Greek.

The intricate map includes Palestine, the hills and valley of the Nile Delta, and the Holy Land, 1500 years ago.

Originally around 15m to 25m long and 6m wide, less than a third of the map remains today. A replica of the Madaba mosaic map fragment that sits on the floor of the church, is displayed at the visitors’ centre.

The interior
of this modest 19th-century church is lined with mosaic art on its walls.

Opening Hours: 
Monday - Thursday, Saturday :  8.00am - 6.00pm 
Friday :  9.30am - 6.00pm
Sunday : 10.30am - 6.00pm 
(Closes at 5.00pm in winter)

Having worked up an appetite, I totally enjoyed my first ever Maqluba (Upside-down chicken & rice) lunch.

This traditional Jordanian dish consists of meat, rice, and fried vegetables placed in a pot. It is served by flipping the pot upside down, hence the name maqluba, which translates literally as “upside-down”

2. Mount Nebo
After lunch, we continued west to the 820m high Mount Nebo, said to be the location where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land of Canaan, knowing full well that he will never set foot on it.

^{Deut 34:4} And the Lord said to him, "This is the land of which I swore to Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, 'I will assign it to your offspring.' I have let you see it with your own eyes, but you shall not cross there."

Today, the Moses Memorial Church sits atop the mountain. A viewpoint just beside it, offers a dramatic and ‘windy’ opportunity to see what Moses saw – a panoramic view of the Dead Sea, the Jordan River valley, Jericho, Bethlehem and the distant hills of Jerusalem.

Beautifully restored in 2016, the Moses Memorial Church is built over the first church, constructed in the 2nd half of the 4th century to commemorate the end of Moses’ life. In the 6th century, it was expanded into a large basilica with a stunning collection of Byzantine mosaics and an elaborate baptistry.

The mosaics which were built in the church have been well preserved and depict a variety of images including wildlife and local customs from different periods of the Byzantine era.

The Diakonikon Baptistery located inside the rebuilt basilica houses several remains of antique mosaics. The main mosaic (9m x 3m), illustrates the process of winemaking, as well as images of hunters and animals.

Discovered in 1976, in the northern hall below a simple mosaic floor, the central mosaic of the Diakonikon Baptistery is a remarkable hunting and herding scene, interspersed with an assortment of African fauna, including a zebu (humped ox), lions, tigers, bears, boars, zebras, an ostrich on a leash and a camel-shaped giraffe.

Outside the present-day shrine stands an enigmatic serpentine cross (the Brazen Serpent Monument), created by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni. It is symbolic of the bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.

As written in the Bible, Moses built the brazen serpent to save people from the plague, whereby a glimpse of the serpent would protect one from the deadly plague.

Mount Nebo
Mount Nebo is a 15-minute drive from the city of Madaba. From the base of the mountain, it is a short walk to the top.

Open Daily  
April - October  : 5.00am - 7.00pm
November - March : 7.00am - 7.00pm

Entrance Fee : 2JD (USD3)

The next day, en-route to Petra, I was fascinated anew by modern mosaic art pieces. From the range of design and various sizes on display, I know that the skill and craftmanship will be passed down to future generations.

East of Petra, in a town called “Wadi Musa” is Moses’ Spring – the place where Moses hit the rock and water flowed out.

House in a simple three domed structure, according to tradition this is the spring Moses created by striking a rock with his staff to provide water for the Israelites.

I have always wanted to make a pilgrimage to Israel and the experience has been fulfilling in so many levels. On top of that, the itinerary included two of the Seven wonders (Petra & Pyramids of Giza) and Mount Sinai. It was easy to go with the flow and wholeheartedly embrace the opportunities presented.

In just 11 days, we managed to cover a lot of interesting and historical sites. There was also the three seas (Mediterranean, Dead, Red) and a lake (Sea of Galilee), rivers (Jordan & Nile), deserts (Judean & Sinai), crossing the Suez Canal, and Route 90, the longest road in Israel.

Jordan-Holyland-Egypt
Full Itinerary 29 Nov – 10 Dec 2019