Whatever expectations of Mongolia I had gleaned from planning the trip via a local travel agent, it fell way short of the actual experience, starting from the minute we landed in Chinggis Khaan International Airport in Ulaanbaatar (UB).
Suffice to say, my preconceived notions barely scratched the surface of this vast country where tradition meets modernity and endures.
Facts on Mongolia I wished I had known before the trip
- Ulaanbaatar is the world’s chilliest capital city
- About 50% of the population of three million live in the city
- It’s the most sparsely populated nation is the world, after Greenland
- There are 20x more livestock than humans
- It’s the world 2nd largest producer of Cashmere goat’s wool
- It’s the 18th largest country in the world
- It’s the world’s second-largest landlocked country, after Kazakhstan
A city of contrasts
We got in mid-morning, were picked up and brought to the guesthouse. From there, we headed out for lunch followed by an exploration of the city on foot. Coming from tropical Kuala Lumpur, it felt a little chilly but was manageable.
Lunch was surprisingly palatable, though we couldn’t quite figure out the ingredients of two of the dishes we ordered.
I did not know it then, but I would see more people and cars in the next 6 hours, compared to the combined total (of people spotting) over the next 10 days.
Sukhbaatar Square
This main square in the heart of Ulaanbaatar is the ‘happening’ place with year-round events ranging from rallies, ceremonies, rock concerts and festivals. Important buildings such as the Parliament House, Stock Exchange, the National Theater and Cultural Palace are located around the square.
Locals and tourists gather to take photos or simply to see what is going on.
Hero of the revolution
On 11 July 1921, Damdin Sükhbaatar (the ‘hero of the revolution’) declared Mongolia’s final independence from China. A square was built on the exact spot and named in his honour. A bronze statue of Sukhbaatar astride his horse was erected in the central-most part of the square, in 1946.
The 4-meter tall equestrian statue sits atop a 8-meter high ‘cliff’ pedestal. Fourteen white lions connected by iron chains surround the monument.
A seated Chinggis Khaan statue overlooks the square from an enormous marble monument that was completed in 2006 to coincide with the 800th anniversary of Chinggis Khaan’s coronation.
Two famed Mongol soldiers (Boruchu and Mukhlai) guard the entrance to the monument.
Behind the Chinggis monument, on the north end of the square stands Parliament House. Statues of Ögedei Khan and Kublai Khan adorn the far ends of the Parliament House’s front steps.
At the southeast corner of the square, the salmon-pinkish building is the State Opera & Ballet Theatre.
The Museum of National History features countless antique outfits from the different ethnicities of Mongolia. The exhibit also offers an in depth look into Chinggis Khan, and the Communist revolution of Mongolia.
A must-see to learn about Mongolia’s rich history and culture.
Occupies the former Museum of Revolution building.
Gandan Monastery
Gandan is the largest and most significant monastery in Mongolia. Built in 1809, it is the only monastery where Buddhist services continued to function even during the soviet purges of the 1930’s.
Since the fall of communism in 1990 it has been renovated and restored into a working monastery and currently has over 150 monks in residence.
This Tibetan-style monastery is situated on the edge of Ulaanbaatar’s Ger district.
The monastery complex consists of three temples, beautifully colored buildings (meditation huts, monastic colleges, library), stupa, and an impressive large Buddha statue.
The Gandan Library houses the largest collection of religious documents and the typography.
Founded in 1956 in the relic temple of the Eighth Bogd Jevzundamba
Intricate roof details
Built in 1911, Migjid Janraisig Temple features elements of traditional Chinese, Mongol and Tibetan architectural styles.
Four-storey Buddha
The Migjid Janraisig Temple houses the tallest indoor Buddhist statue in the world (26.5m high Avalokitesvara or “Lord Who Looks Down”).
Fee applies for photography inside the temple.
Covered in gems and gold leaf, this 1996 statue replaced the original copper one, reputedly dismantled by the Russians in 1938. The new gilded statue was built with donations of the Mongolian people as a symbol of Buddhist revival in the mid-1990s.
This blog would not be complete without a shout-out to the Mongolian Gobi Attraction team who made our trip and entire experience in Mongolia so memorable.
Hogy – Host & owner
Hogy single-handedly managed all administrative matters. The entire trip (itinerary, budget, etc) was finalised via email, including our accommodation in UB. She patiently answered our questions, what we can expect to see and prepared delicious breakfasts for us. Hogy provides excellent service with a personal touch so that guests get the full Mongolian experience.
Eku – Guide
A young man with an ‘old soul’, Eku totally loves romantic oldies from the 50s & 60s, much to our surprise and delight. Well-versed beyond his age, he can converse over a wide range of topics, in addition to showing and sharing the history and culture of his beautiful country. Eku is a responsible, conscientious guide who is committed to ensuring our comfort at all times.
Lhagvaa – Driver
A first rate driver with a fantastic memory and GPS in his head. He unerringly navigated us safely covering 2,100km in 10 days.
Fellow traveler Peter has this to say…
In-tune with his Russian van, Lhagvaa was able to ‘hear’ when something is not right, stopping immediately. Over the course of the trip, the trusty ‘Bukhanka’ (Russian: ‘loaf of bread’) had rear drivetrain mini-overhaul, 2x fanbelt changes, a leaf-spring band-aid fix, carburettor unclogging and a tyre change, with basically zero impact to the itinerary. Testament as much to the hardcore keep-it-simple & rugged Russian engineering as to the mechanical brilliance and ingenuity of Lhagvaa Samdanbazar.
Central Mongolia & Gobi Desert (September 2018)
Sept 10 – Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Sept 11 – Baga Gazriin Chuluu
Sept 12 – Tsagaan Suvarga – Harmony of Colours
Sept 13 – Yolyn Am : Vulture Valley, Ice Canyon
Sept 14 – Singing Dunes of Khongor, Mongolia
Sept 15 – Flaming Cliffs of Bayanzag & Ruins of Ongi Monastery, Mongolia
Sept 16 – Biggest waterfall in Mongolia
Sept 17 – Tuvkhon Monastery
Sept 18 – Great White Lake (Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur)
Sept 19 – Erdene Zuu Monastery
Sept 20 – Takhi Wild Horse @Hustai National Park
Sept 21 – Mongolia’s Switzerland & Genghis Khan
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