I got my first taste of hiking in South Korea in 2016 at Jaunbong Peak, Dobongsan. The experience was so memorable I vowed to return, setting my sights on Baegundae Peak, which finally materialised on 11 September 2023.

Highest point of Seoul

Besides being the most popular summit among hikers from various access points, there are multiple routes of varying distance and difficulty levels to choose from. Justifying a second / third visit is extremely easy, as even a repeat visit can be a whole new experience, depending on the season!

I chose to visit on a Monday to avoid the weekend day hikers. Below is a shot of how crowded it gets on Sunday at the final 300m, courtesy of JackandJill.

9.30am On arrival at Bukhansan Fortress, I made sure to stop by the Ranger office to pick up a trail map and have it marked with my intended route for easy reference.

Though sorely tempted, I decided against doing the Bukhansan Fortress – UI Station trans trail, opting instead for a loop trail from Bukhansan Fortress (west entrance), as I wanted to shop for hike gear, after.

There are more hike shops and choices here, compared to UI Station, which has just the one shop.

Though the water level was low, the Chinese minnow fish (bottom left picture) appeared to be thriving, regardless.

9.55 am The initial dirt track was mostly flat, taking me past a newish temple with ‘human-like’ rock cairns. Five minutes later, a boardwalk followed by a flight of steps led me out of the valley and into the forest.

Thereafter, the forested trail turned stony and starts climbing in earnest.

A few minutes later, we came to a charming archway pointing the way to a Buddhist temple. Giving the temple a miss, we continued right, up a seemingly giant rock staircase with endless steps.

The next 90 minutes was an unrelenting incline of stone steps, rock slopes and sheer granite. For better safety, sections of the path had handrails bolted down securely to aid hikers going up/down.

11.44am As I zig zag up the rockiest section, I had my first glimpse of Baegundae Peak during a break in foliage.

11.58 am I paused at the foot of a massive rockface.

I started my final ascent, alternating between steps hewn into the rocks and hauling myself up along the anchored handrail.

While my shoes found traction on the smooth surface, the presence of the railings is very comforting. This next section has a proper stairway wide enough for 2-way traffic.

12.03pm At one point when I looked up, hikers ahead of me appeared to be walking cliffside, on the edge of nothingness. Scary!

12.12 pm After rounding numerous corners, the peak was finally in sight. Already feeling the cardio burn from the quick elevation gain which did not let up, the final approach must have been a 55° slope (at least!). I scrambled, using the metal rods as leverage, subjecting my arm muscles to a solid workout.

12.15 pm The elation of reaching the 360° panoramic top is beyond description. A Japanese tourist helped me take the obligatory shots and I happily returned the favour. Though not crowded (less than 10 people), the peak is a small area, so we moved on to make room for others.

After summiting Baegundae, there are many chill spots to hang out at – from a huge slab of rock just below to nearby boulders to the north and east.

We made our way to the outcrop for a bird’s eye view of Seoul city, soaking in the sprawling mass of buildings and surrounding mountain ranges. Of course, we took more pictures before relaxing over lunch.

1.01 pm On the way up, I did not notice the fortress wall (at left) or the view behind me. This time I made sure to be in the moment and savour it.

Below is a picture of hikers at the same fortress wall taken 15 minutes later (from below), shortly after I started on the Bukhansanseong easy course.

1.10 pm From Wie-mun gate, I backtracked to the intersection and followed directional signs to Bukhansanseong. Along the way, I couldn’t resist looking back at Baegundae Peak, reliving unique moments of the awesome climb.

Still basking in the euphoria of standing on the highest point of Seoul, my emotions ranged from immense satisfaction to delirious joy.

1.16 pm The gradual route weaves along the side of the mountain, offering 180° views of Seoul on my right.

Initially, the undulating the trail dipped and climbed over a mixed terrain of dirt trails, stone steps and wooden stairways.

1.25 pm Feeling good, I took the opportunity to practice my limited Korean, cheerfully greeting hikers ‘annyeonghaseyo‘ (Hello) and ‘gamsahamnida‘ (thank you) as we passed.

1.40 pm About 1.2km from Wie-Mun gate, I encountered another section of the fortress wall.

From this point onwards the trail descends steadily. I picked up the pace, continuing along the rocky steps that soon gave way to a forested dirt path.

2.02 pm After passing Taegosa temple, the trail became less discernable. The dry creek bed can easily be mistaken for a trail. I stoically found my own downhill path until the trail became obvious again.

2.21 pm As the path widened, evolving from gravel to stone pavers, I once again confirmed the route with a passing hiker, who told me that I had 3 km to go.

Bukhansanseong Fortress
The Bukhansanseong Fortress is an example of Korean castle architecture and a unique structure from the Joseon period built during the year 1711. It served as a royal retreat with 120 rooms, 16 gates - 6 great gates, 8 secret gates, 2 water gates, and 143 seong-rang (sentry post).  It stretches a distance of 7.89 miles (12.7 km) covering an area of 16 square miles (6.2 sq km). 
Source: Global Alliance of National Parks

Not long after, I reached a huge intersection with directional signs pointing everywhere but Bukhansanseong. Notable structures here include Borisa Temple and Bukhandong History Museum, alongside amenities such as drinks vending machines, rest area and public toilets.

2.54 pm Dae-seo-mun (Great West Gate) is the main gate of Bukhansanseong, sitting at the lowest elevation of the sixteen fortress gates located in the park.

3.11 pm Back at the Bukhansanseong Park Information Center, I rewarded myself with a cold drink from the vending machine before indulging in some retail therapy at the many outdoor shops I passed by that morning.

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Getting there – The Bukhansanseong Park Information Centre

1. Get off at Gupabal Station (Head to Exit 1, do a U-turn at street level. Bus-stop is 20m).
2. Take the metro (subway) – Orange line 3 (towards Daehwa).
3. Get on bus 704/ 34 /8772
4. Get off at Bukhansanseong Fortress stop, follow the Bukhansan National Park sign to the entrance

Bukhansan National Park lies at the northern boundary of Seoul and is one of the most popular hiking destination in Seoul, with its abundance of granite peaks, nature trails, gorges, trickling streams and 3,100 species of plants & animals. 

The park is also known as Samgaksan (Three-horned Mountain) due to its three highest peaks - Baegundae (836m), Insubong (810m) and Mangyeongdae (787m). 

Bukhansan is home to many historical and cultural sites including the 2000-year old Bukhansanseong Fortress, Buddhist temples and hermitages. The park is easily accessible via public transport (subway/ bus) or private car, from any of it many entrances. 

Opening Hours :      
March to November 04:00 - 17:00
December to February 04:00 -16:00
Free Admission 

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6D/5N Seoul Itinerary
8/9/2023- N Seoul Tower
9/9/2023 – Free Walking tours in Seoul – Hanok Buckhon Village
10/9/2023 – Seoul walking tours – Cheonggyecheon (Stream) & Seoul Old City Wall (Naksan Park)
11/9/2023 – Baegundae Peak, Bukhansan
12/9/2023 – Day Trip : Gangchon Rail Bike, Nami Island, Garden of Morning Calm