Our next stop was Ogii Lake in the Arkhangai province of central Mongolia, 80km northeast of Kharkhorin. As such we had the morning free to visit the Kharakhorum Museum and Erdene Zuu Monastery.

Erdene Zuu Monastery

Founded in 1585, Erdene Zuu Monastery is Mongolia’s oldest surviving Buddhist shrine, built with stones from the ruined capital Karakorum. More details on Erdene Zuu history have been covered in my previous blog.

The immense monastery is enclosed by a 400m x 400m fortress wall. Each wall has a huge gate at the midpoint.

This iconic 16th century wall of Kharkhorin was built after the death of Genghis Khan, to protect the city from invaders.

Going anti-clockwise, we started from the huge gate at the mid-point of the south wall. Spaced evenly along each wall are 25 stupas (15m apart), with two additional ones at each corner for a total of 108. (108 is a sacred Buddhist number)

Wintry 2018 vs Hot 2023
My previous visit on a frigidly cold day with fresh snow on the Khangai mountains vs a sunny day and blue skies (bottom pic).

Again, different views of the same spot due to contrasting weather conditions.

By the time we completed the loop to the West Gate entrance, it was already hot at 10am. We met up with our guide Hurley and started the tour of Erdene Zuu. This time we followed the paved walkway to the far end of the sprawling complex, exploring structures along the way.

NB. Entrance to the walled monastery grounds is free. A ticket is required for the main temple, which includes a tour with an English-speaking guide.

Golden Stupa
Built in 1799, this large golden topped stupa survived the Soviet purges of the 1930s. The 8m high stupa contains 100,000 different Buddhas and is surrounded by 8 smaller stupas.

Lavrin Süm
Built in 1875, the Lavrin Temple is a sturdy white-washed structure with upturned eaves and flapping prayer flags. 

This 3-storey Tibetan style temple is the only functioning temple where monks can be found chanting, practicing musical instruments and providing sacred readings daily.

Retracing our steps to the West Gate, we stopped at the Temple complex to visit and see the inside of the remaining buildings from the Stalinist purge.

Ironically, it was Stalin himself who saved the main temples from being destroyed, calling them symbols of religious freedom, to be put on display for international visitors, ahead of then U.S. Vice President Henry A. Wallace visit in the late 1940s.

The monastery complex was eventually converted into a museum in 1965. It finally became a place of worship again after the fall of Communism in 1990.

There are three main temples inside the courtyard (l-r) Baruun Zuu, Zuu and Zuun Zuu, dedicated to the three stages in Buddha’s life – adult, child, adolescence.

Wintry 2018 vs Hot 2023 revisited. Sorry, I could not resist showing the ‘miserable & bundled up’ left picture.

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30 August 2023
It was my second visit to this former ancient capital of the Mongol Empire (aka Karakorum) founded by Genghis Khan in 1220. From the 1230s, Ogedei (his son) further developed the capital until it was moved to Beijing in the early 1270s by Kublai Khan. Following the move, and the subsequent collapse of the Mongolian empire, Karakorum was abandoned and then destroyed by Manchu soldiers in 1388.

Kharakhorum Museum

Opened in 2011, the museum is dedicated to exhibiting artifacts from Mongolian history. An excavated site of a kiln visible through a glass floor takes centrestage immediately inside. There is also a letter from the then Pope to then Khaan of 1245, which made interesting reading.

Just like before, I was captivated by the scale model of the capital city in its heyday. Based on descriptions written by the missionary William of Rubruck, there were at least 12 different pagan temples, two mosques, a church and one Buddhist temple located inside the city’s walls. This demonstrates that Karakorum was a city built on understanding and tolerance, where different religious practices were accepted.

Phallic Rock

On a hill outside the monastery sits a historical stone phallic sculpture called the Penis Stone, that serves as a reminder for young monks to restrain their sexual impulses to ensure good behavior.

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Ogii Lake

After lunch, the drive to Ogii Lake took a little over an hour. I was mesmerised by the crystal clear blue water once we crested the hill, and started the approach to the lake.

After settling into our Gers, we set out to explore the lake on foot. We saw a family enjoying the final days of summer, picnicking by the lakeside and dipping in its cool waters.

I stayed in the water as we continued walking to the right of the lake until we reached a low-lying section covered by water, on the other side of the shore.

Ogii Lake is a birdwatching haven. The lake and its surrounding wetlands attract 150 types of aquatic bird species (swans, geese, ducks, herons), including migratory birds from Siberia and other parts of Asia.

Ogii Lake is very picturesque, surrounded by rolling hills, grassy meadows, and desert-like landscapes. My walk back was painfully slow, as I was distracted by the amazing scenery.

Back at our Ger Camp, visitors can choose to stay in a traditional Ger or modern cabins.

Dinner that night was rather posh. Our host prepared a full 3-course meal with proper table settings. The chef recommended fish, as they had a fresh haul of perch. Good choice, great dinner!

The next morning, I discovered more scenic sights on my final walk to the lake before breakfast.

I find Ogii Lake delightful, as a tranquil and relaxing getaway for nature lovers. Its natural beauty, diverse birdlife, abundance of fish, water sports (boating, kayaking, sailing, swimming), nature exploration (hiking, horse riding, camping) makes it a perfect spot for both locals and tourists.