Gua Kelam (Cave of Darkness) is a 370-metre long limestone cave that thrills visitors with its one-of-a kind ‘cave walk’ where the entrance and exit are at different locations.

Divided into two main sections, Gua Kelam 1 has a 400m underground river while above ground Gua Kelam 2 has a 1.5km passage consisting of a dry and wet trail.

Located 33km north of Kangar and just 500m from one-street town Kaki Bukit (literally Foot Hill), Gua Kelam is part of the Wang Mu Forest Reserve that spans 2,000 hectares, and shares a border with the Banjaran Nakawan range of Thailand.

22 May 2024
Sadly for us, Gua Kelam 1 was temporarily closed (due to a cave in) therefore we had to settle for a out-and-back walk through Gua Kelam 2. From the visitor center, we followed our guide up and across a suspension bridge to the cave entrance.

The tunnel and limestone path which stretches throughout the cave is believed to be the design of an Englishman who used the water pathway to transport tin ore through the underground cavern to Kaki Bukit.

This is the first of many pools within the cave system, installed with colour changing lights to enhance the cave experience.

Continuing along a limestone path, our guide directed our gaze upwards, where a ‘cave curtain’ (draperies) with slender delicate sheets hang from its very high ceiling.

Draperies are deposits from calcite-rich solutions flowing along an overhung surface.

(left) Thousands-year old cave curtain vs (right) 40-year old multi-coloured translucent draperies

Unlike other caves, Gua Kelam is unique because of its mining heritage.

The Miner’s Legacy

As we ventured deeper into the cave, remnants of mining activity can be seen – ore washing stations, where water is used to separate the ore particles from sediment. Also on display were tools used by the miners.

Next up, was a very basic ‘rain indicator’ comprising of a metal sheet supported by steel rods. Placed directly beneath an opening (hole in the ceiling), the sound of water hitting the sheet would alert the miners of a downpour and to take the necessary precautions.
Nb. Underground chambers can flood very quickly during torrential rains.

Over time, the calcite-laced water has coated the steel rods (right picture) giving it a smooth, glossy surface.

Gua Kelam Mining History

Originally mined by locals, it was eventually taken over by Kong Fatt Mining Company in 1935, who brought 2000 workers from China to work the mine.

Divided into 3 groups, the next 50 years saw the miners occupying separate caverns which became their workplace, living/eating and sleeping areas.

‘Gates’ were built to mark the border of their respective territories. The initials ‘AQ’ can be seen clearly in the pictures below.

A lone bat was flying near the ‘gate’, as I peered into its dim interior.

Another interesting discovery is the presence of fluffy fungi that thrives on chunky rotting timber. The spores start out fluffy white when newly formed, hardens to a clumpy yellow and finally brown as it dies.

The path narrowed out as we passed a second washing station on the left.

Our guide shared that the miners were paid a paltry $1.70 back in 1935.
Me : “a day?“
Guide : “No, a month“

After an engrossing hour, we reached the turnaround point. Pointing to a locked gate, our guide showed us the start of the wet trail which is not for the faint hearted as it is narrower, requires crawling/ squeezing through tight spaces, river wading, swimming through pools and the occasional vertical climb.

Formations and relics from a lifetime ago.

Clockwise from top Left :
Cave crystals – our guide ‘washed’ away the brown layer by shooting a jet of water, to reveal shiny white crystal shards.
Cave Living – food tin containers and utensils left behind by miners, who ate, slept and laboured here for 50 years
Flowstone (frozen waterfall) – forms when water rich in calcium carbonate flows along the walls or floor of a cave, depositing layers of calcite

The mine eventually closed in the 1980s, not because the ore ran out, but due to dropping tin prices when the world tin market collapsed in 1985.

I thoroughly enjoyed the 1 hour and 15 minutes cave walk covering a distance of 700m. From the map above, we walked a further 300m after the Main Chamber Blue Pool. I definitely want to visit Gua Kelam 1, so a second visit is highly probable.