Petite Perlis – Part 2

Located on the Malaysia-Thailand border, our journey of discovery continues – for hidden charms and unrivalled beauty that cannot be found anywhere else but in the smallest state of Malaysia.

23 May 2024

Wang Kelian Viewpoint

Renowned as the best place for unobstructed views of carpeted clouds stretching to the horizon, the Wang Kelian Viewpoint is one of the top attractions in Perlis.

Visitors arrive as early as 6:30 am to catch the sunrise and the ‘sea of clouds’ phenomenon while enjoying the cool breezy atmosphere.

At the foot of the hill, a road leads to the rainbow-coloured platform at the top. From the moment we started walking, the scenery was already breathtaking. Shrouded by ribbons of mist, the landscape had an added air of mystery.

Here was my chance to experiment and capture images of fog and mist (or so I thot).

Five minutes later the unthinkable happened. Just as we reached the summit, the mist rolled in, enveloping the entire vantage point. Surrounded by fog, we had no choice but to wait for it to dissipate. It was a long forty minutes with nothing to see or do, as visibility was less than 20 feet.

The breeze finally picked up enough to blow the mists away, revealing the state’s natural beauty of undulating terrain, limestone hills and mountain range.

Sitting at 304m above sea level, the lookout point finally delivered the promised bird’s eye view of Perlis – comprising Bukit Chabang, Timah Tasoh dam and a green-capped landscape.  

Already behind schedule, we quickly took the obligatory pictures before heading back to the carpark. On the way down, we met some Park personnel who shared that the terraced slope opposite is a durian orchard in the making.

Wang Kelian

Nestled within the prehistoric Nakawan Range, Wang Kelian is a small village located on the northwestern part of the Thailand-Malaysia border. The road to Wang Kelian is very picturesque, as it passes through the Perlis State Park, winds up a ridge before descending into a valley.

The Nakawan Range is a 370 million-year-old mountain range that runs from the Thai border all the way to the Straits of Malacca.

Wang Kelian is also the location of one of two border crossings between Malaysia and Thailand in the state of Perlis, with the other one at Padang Besar.

Wang Kelian-Wang Prachan border 

Just 4 km north of Wang Kelian village is the border crossing into Thailand.

A small duty-free shop is located beside the immigration checkpoint.

The Thai checkpoint is called Wang Prachan, 32 km from Satun.

10.39am
Our ‘late breakfast’ was quickly morphing into ‘early lunch’ and was at least an hour’s drive away.

Warung Tepi Sawah

Open daily for breakfast till 12pm, Warung Tepi Sawah offers traditional Malaysian breakfast including a few which are only known in the Northern states.

This open-air kampung style restaurant lives up to its USP (unique selling point) of breakfast by the paddy fields against a craggy limestone backdrop, for a Malaysia Truly Asia experience.

11.39am
To get a taste of the breakfast variety, we ordered at least a dish from all the different stalls.

Similar to Roti Telur Goyang in Penang, ROTI BAKAR TELUR GEDIK is kaya spread on toast, topped with a half boiled egg. I had this and prefer the toast WITHOUT the sprinkle of sugar.

Traditional Feast

  • roti bakar telur gedik
  • apom lenggang
  • roti bakar
  • capati
  • roti doll
  • mee rebus
  • pasembor
  • cucur udang

APOM LENGGANG (crepe) is a northern delicacy that is eaten with curry and/or sambal.

ROTI DOLL (roti canai, curry and sunny side up eggs on top)

Harumanis Mango

Dubbed the ‘best mango in the world’ Harumanis mango is a local delicacy known for its distinctive sweet, creamy, and aromatic flavor.

Claimed to grow best exclusively in Perlis, genuine Harumanis can only be nurtured in the state’s natural terrain due to the soil having the right PH level and mineral ratio.

Single harvest / Labour intensive

Each Harumanis mango has to be wrapped by hand in a paper bag during harvesting season to protect against animals.

The mangoes are harvested once a year only from April to June.

The day before, a random bunting led us to a Harumanis center, where we selected a fruit and asked for it to be cut and served straight away. They obliged and we totally loved the sweet indulgence.
Verdict : The flesh is tender and juicy, naturally sweet and very fragrant.

Not surprisingly, The ‘best mango is the world’ is also the most expensive in Malaysia at RM40/kg. Kinda like Musang King durian.

After lunch, we stopped at a Harumanis farm to get more mangoes-to-go. The easy-going farmer helped us to select the fruits, selling them at RM20/kg. Luckily for us, he still had fruits, unlike his neighbour whose harvest ended two weeks ago.

BUKIT KETERI

Located in Kampung Bukit Keteri, this unique karst formation has a limestone tower and cave, ideal for hiking and rock climbing activities. Surrounded by paddy fields and scenic countryside, climbers scale the 131m limestone tower for unrivalled panoramic views from the top.

This outcrop holds a cave that cuts through the entire mountain at a height of about 30m forming various holes and overhangs that cater for steep and photogenic routes.

6.10pm
Starting from Bukit Keteri West, I headed right towards the limestone tower, following a barely there trail. The steep incline was slippery as it was littered by dry forest debris. The trail disappeared when it hit a solid vertical wall. I explored the narrow ledge for a bit on either side but could not find the way forward.

Dejected, I turned back and consoled myself with pictures of Bukit Keteri from the base.

Out of the blue, two locals on a bike appeared. I enquired about the hiking trail and learnt that it is rarely used, as the cave is the bigger attraction.

Can you be my guide? When he hesitated saying it’s almost 7pm and will be dark soon, I persisted and asked again.

I must have looked desperate (but harmless) cause Jan agreed to take me to the cave, and if we are quick, we’ll head on to the other side for the northern view.

Then came a series of questions – All valid (I felt) to assess my ability, fitness and fear of heights

Q1. How old are you? Do you have the speed, strength & stamina

Q2. Can you climb that? A rope climb up a 60 degree smooth slope

Q3. What about that? Two aluminum ladders propped against a near vertical wall

7:12pm
At the top of the ladder, I squeezed through the small opening by going up 3 rickety steps onto a bigger level area.

Near the centre is a huge flowstone that is still growing.

7.13pm
Continuing left along the edge, Jan indicated the way forward via a wooden ladder

The next moment I was awestruck by two ‘nature windows’ overlooking Kampung Bukit Keteri. I could not resist using the irregular shaped openings to frame the rice fields landscape, for a more interesting shot.

7:17pm
As a child, Jan used to climb up here to play. During that time, local adults also frequented the cave to collect guano (bat droppings).

According to Jan, the guano would be lowered to the ground from this opening (now barricaded to prevent accidents).

At this point, Jan felt confident I could make it to the other side, so we pushed on. We went deeper into the cave which was strewn with rocks and boulders of all sizes. The passage involved the occasional jump across 2-foot deep crevices, descending into the belly of the cave before climbing up the other side. On the final climb, Jan had to give me a hand-up as the gap was too high and wide.

7.24pm
Emerging out of the cave mouth, I could truly appreciate the unique sight of limestone hills jutting out amidst flat paddy fields.


Our timing was perfect!

Following Jan’s lead, I climbed and perched on a neighbouring rock for a dramatic shot with Bukit Jernih in the background.

To hike Bukit Jernih, a guide and permit is required.

Jan soon joined me, moving right to the edge of the outcrop, to capture the setting sun. It was a glorious sunset, even by Jan’s standard as he has seen fantastic sunrises as well.

I could feel Jan’s enthusiasm, sincerity and desire to share the beauty of his hometown. He was genuinely happy that I got to witness this magical side of Perlis. The race against time to get here, culminating with a spectacular sunset was totally justified and most satisfying.

We sat quietly, enjoying the ethereal natural display as the sky transition from day to night. From below, the azan maghrib (sunset prayer) rang out from a nearby mosque.

I am truly grateful to Jan who agreed to accompany me to the cave, 5 minutes after meeting me for the first time. He says he likes helping people, and I am indeed blessed that our paths crossed that day.

The adventure was totally unexpected – climbing up scary ladders, ropes, going quickly through the cave in time to capture fantastic sunset views before navigating back in the dark.

For the return journey, I didn’t use my handphone to light the way as I needed both hands for support. I stayed close, guided by the light from Jan’s handphone. As Jan was much quicker, each time he turned a corner, I would be engulfed by darkness. So I quickly learnt to memorise the route (when its illuminated) and press on. Luckily, Jan turned around every so often to light up the way for me before moving forward again.

For an idea of the route I took and the cave passage, the first 2.40 minutes of video below is a good visual representation.

7:47pm
Back on the western side, the fully lit up Bukit Keteri Market carpark shone like a beacon, compared to 30 minutes ago (right pic).

7.50pm
I have scant recollection of the final 30m descent down the 2 ladders and assisted rope to reach the bottom again. I had an awesome time, made a new friend and benefited from his hospitality.


Make Perlis your next Cuti-Cuti Malaysia destination. There are lots to see, do and taste

  • abundant natural wonders
  • endless rice fields
  • authentic culture
  • quaint villages
  • charming countryside
  • traditional Malay food
  • tranquil retreat


4D/3N Perlis Itinerary
21 May Petite PERLIS packs a Powerful Punch!
22 May Gua Kelam, Perlis
23 May Petite Perlis – Part 2

I would definitely recommend a visit to Perlis for its back-to-nature adventures, rustic charm, tranquil lakes, serene countryside and friendly locals.

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