Amarbaysgalant is a beautiful monastery located in Selenge Province of northern Mongolia. As one of the least destroyed monastic complex during the 1930s political upheavals, this most authentic of Buddhist monasteries is also one of the most well-preserved in Mongolia.
The style of the monastery is predominantly Chinese, but with strong influences of Tibetan and Mongolian art.
Nestled in the picturesque valley of the Iven River, the red-brown walls of the temple complex contrast against the green Burenkhan Mountain range.
Constructed under the order of Manchu Emperor Yongzheng, Amarbayasgalant Monastery is dedicated to Zanabazar, the first Bogd, Buddhist leader of Mongolia and sculptor. It is also known as the “Monastery of Tranquil Felicity”.
Built between 1727 and 1736, the original complex had over 40 temples arranged on a spectacular terrace, enclosed by a 207m by 175m red brown wall. Today, only 28 temples remain within four main courtyards and 30 resident monks, compared to 2000 at its peak.
7 September 2023
At the Monastery’s perimeter fence, we quickly digested some quick facts as background ahead of our visit.
The monastery’s entranceway is framed by a golden inscription in Mongolian, Manchu, and Chinese that reads “The monastery Amarbayasgalant was erected at the Imperial Command.”
The monastery has a symmetrical construction, similar to the general layout of the Manchu-style Imperial Palace. Hierarchically arranged, the important buildings succeed one another along a north–south axis, while the secondary buildings are laid out on parallel sides.
The central axis of the outer courtyard flanked by bell/drum towers on both sides.
One of the bell / drum towers which is now a Gift shop (left) and an aged doorway of the entrance wall (right)
From the Protector Gate, we continued straight past a pair of pavilions to the inner courtyard and main temple.
A first glimpse of the main temple from a wooden arch (left pic) and side view (right pic)
It is not uncommon to find the temple unattended, which was exactly what happened. While Hurley went to find the monk with the keys to unlock the doors and give us a tour, we did our own little exploration of the complex.
I wandered into the pavilion on the east, finding various angles to shoot / frame the main temple, including some light and shadow indulgence.
Architectural Wonder Built-to-last
The monastery was built using the wood interlock method (ancient Chinese construction technique), with not a single nail needed. This 2,500 year-old building innovation consists of a series of interlocking brackets that transfers the weight of the roof to vertical columns, lessening the strain on the horizontal beams.
Tsogchin Temple
The main temple features traditional Mongolian elements, such as the stepped entrance platform and sloping rooflines, combined with Tibetan Buddhist symbols and motifs.
The design references Manchu style, down to the inscriptions, symmetrical layout, imperial colour scheme.
The two-storey, 32m by 32m main temple Tsogchin Dugana is an architectural masterpiece with amazing roof tiles and intricate enamel ceilings.
Roof Guardians
Decorative tiles and roof figures such as dragons perch on the ends and ridges of roofs at every corner
The richly decorated interior has floor to ceiling pillars in vibrant hues while banners in a riot of colours drape from its high, airy ceiling.
Another unique feature is the four middle pillars in Tsogchin Dugana that acts as a rain duct connecting to tunnels under its floor. The roof water flows down through the columns and is directed away from the temple.
Six temples are open to the public, while the rest of the temples are used to house mummified bodies of the first (Zanabazar), third and fourth Bogd Gegeens.
At the back of the main temple, this Ger represents the original Yellow Ger in which Zanabazar was named Bogd Gegeen.
The tomb of Zanabazar containing his mummified body which was moved here in 1779 is left of the Ger (can’t be seen), while behind it is the Protector temple – built to house the ten protector Gods of Buddhism.
The 4th Bogd Gegeen Temple containing his remains (left) and Sakyamuni temple (right).
Following the building hierarchy, the monks’ quarters are at the back, on both sides of the main buildings.
Tsam Dance Circle
On the way out, I saw newer buildings beyond the perimeter fence on the east as we passed the Tsam Dance Circle.
Tsam dance is one of the largest and most popular Buddhist ritual held in Mongolia. The Tsam ceremony is believed to protect people from unexpected bad fortune, evils and even protects the state from foreign threats. During the performance, skilled monk dancers wear mask to ward off evil and bad fortune.
The previous evening
Spying two monuments perched on a hillside against the Burenkhan Mountain range from our Ger Camp, we needed no further urging for a quick exploration before dinner, after dropping off our luggage.
Located on the mountain hill behind the Amarbayasgalant Monastery, a long staircase leads to Jarun Hashor Stupa.
6.55pm
The name “Jarun Hashor” means “lost the promise”
The stupa is also referred to as “Eye Stupa” because it’s said that if you look into the sculpted eye on its exterior, all your sins will be forgiven.
Midway up the endless steps, I turned back and was rewarded by a picturesque view of majestic mountains and the lush green valley of Iven River, dotted by Gers and grazing livestock.
A bird’s eye view
of Amarbayasgalant Monastery awaited
us at the top.
Fashioned after Nepal’s Boudhanath Stupa (right pictures) the smaller Jarun Hashor is encircled by Buddha statues and prayer wheels.
After going around the stupa in a clockwise direction, we turned east, following a trail across the steppe towards another white staircase with a golden statue at the top.
North of Amarbayasgalant Monastery, a 13-meter high Bogd Zonkhoba image and two of his disciples watch over the valley from this high perch. At the base of these statues are some stone carvings.
7.22pm
With night approaching and a slight drizzle, we called it a day. Descending via the 108 stairs, we passed giant mani wheels housed in 3 pagodas enroute.
Amarbayasgalant Monastery As one of Mongolia’s less-explored wonders, the allure of Amarbayasgalant Monastery lies in its natural settings, architecture and remoteness. Set in a large green open landscape, the monastery sits in the cul-de-sac of a long, deep valley backed by the sheer cliff of Burenkhan Mountain. Thanks to its remote location, only 10 of the 38 temples were completely destroyed during the 1930s religious purge. Within the walls of Amarbayasgalant Monastery, there is a treasured collection of religious artifacts, including statues, thangka paintings and ancient manuscripts. Though protected since 1943, restoration of the monastery began in 1988 (after 50 years of neglect) aided by funds from UNESCO and private sources.
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