Peaks of the Balkans (POB)

The full circuit consists of 10 stages and can be completed anywhere from 8 – 12 days depending on your pace and route. The most popular (and easiest to access) are Theth (Albania), Pejë (Kosovo), and Plav (Montenegro).

For me, it was about hiking along the borders of three previously war-torn nations and crossing through the continent’s least-explored landscapes. My adventure started with a transfer from Tirana to Skhoder (2 hours by road) where we met the rest of the group.

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4 SEPTEMBER 2024

The hike to Blue Eye served as a warm up hike, preparing us for the longer, more intense hikes to follow. From Skhoder, it is a 2-hour drive to the small village of Nderlyse where the hike starts directly from the parking lot.

Nderlyse to Blue Eye Theth (45 mins – 1 hour)

Located in northern Albania, the Blue Eye in Theth National Park is a natural spring known for its magnificent turquoise and azure hues. Surrounded by lush vegetation, dramatic cliffs and clear blue rivers, it is one of the best hikes in the area.

Rated as moderate, the well-marked trail through the Theth National Park offers picturesque views of the Albanian Alps, dense forests, and rocky terrain.

At the path split, continuing right into a forested area, the path twists and turns as it hugs the side of the mountain. The hikes gets more strenuous, at a steady incline for the next half hour.

The trail eventually led to the river. We crossed the bridge to the other side.

From here, it’s just a short hike to reach the highlight of the day – the Blue Eye.

A Blue Eye is a very deep spring water pool set in a karst rock formation. The incredible colours and clear water is a result of the depth of the water and the vegetation surrounding it.

Set deep within limestone rock, the Blue Eye resembles a human eye with a vivid blue pupil in the center and encircling iris in lighter blues and greens.

At the top is a small restaurant that serves coffee and snacks, with multiple viewing platforms further on along the trail. I flitted from one viewing spot in search of the ‘Ultimate Shot’.

I would have gone back down the same way had Chitra not asked if the trail loops to the opposite side. We decided to explore, walking along the upper trail enjoying the stunning views from this high vantage point.

After crossing a wooden bridge above the waterfall, the water source was revealed. Formed by melting snow from the alps, the Black River feeds into the pool via the cascading waterfall.

Ideal for weekend family excursions, most visitors picnic and swim on both sides of the river while thrill seekers jump off the bridge for the adrenaline rush of an icy shock.

I easily resisted the icy shock but not the shimmering blue water. Picking a quieter spot along the riverbank, we went for a dip.

After a blissful 1.5 hours at this idyllic gem, we hit the trail again. The return journey was easier as it was mostly downhill. The first half hour was comfortable as I was still ‘thawing out’ from my 10-second dip in the freezing waters. I only felt hot in the last 15 minutes.

On the final approach to Nderlyse, the natural pools near the stone groves is completely dry in September (left pic) compared to earlier in June (right pic).

Though isolated and remote, Nderlyse appeals to outdoor enthusiasts with its natural pools, stone groves (rock formation that resemble bathtubs) and the Grunas canyon.

Established in 1966, Theth National Park lies in the Shala Valley at the heart of the Accursed Mountain Range in northern Albania. Home to one of Albania's Blue Eyes, this stunning valley boasts a diverse ecosystem featuring glacial springs, unique rock formations, waterfalls, dense forests and a beautiful river. The protected national park is of pristine quality and largely remote. 

Albania's 'Blue Eyes' is one of the most intriguing natural phenomenon of this Balkan state. What's even more amazing is that Albania actually has a pair of these otherworldly water springs, at opposite ends of the country. 'Blue Eye Albania' located in the south near the coastal city of Saranda, is equally beguiling. 

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The village of Theth is the perfect base for exploring the Accursed Mountains, serving as the start and end point of our 10-day POB hike.

Nderlyse to Theth (2 hours)

We started out for Theth at 2.30pm, passing buildings and guesthouses along the main road. After 1km we turned right onto a road bridge which led to a dry pebbly river bed, and the start of the trailhead.

The hike path follows the winding river and is a mixture of stony terrain, weaving around the occasional boulder with short sections of woodland.

Wooden viewing platforms and a wooden bridge with broken / missing planks along the way distracted us from the torturous ascent, momentarily.

Just after 4pm, a traditional stone house greeted us at the outskirts of Theth. Then began the long descent into Theth village which sits at 750m asl.

Eventually the trail leveled out and the soothing sounds of nature I had been enjoying took on a village vibe. As if on cue, sheep suddenly dashed across the path to the river for a drink.

Walking through narrow paths and stone steps flanked by charming homes, we learnt that more and more of these traditional stone houses with slate roofs are being converted into guesthouses.

4.30pm
At our guest house, we collected our luggage (which arrived ahead of us) and headed up to our room.

Our duplex on the second floor came with an attached bathroom with 2 beds on the lower floor, while the upper floor sleeps 3. What luxury.

After a refreshing shower, we headed down to the common area with our don’t-leave-home-without-it Malaysian favourites. I had Jasmine flavoured green tea while Jess had Ho Yan Hor herbal tea followed by teh tarik halia (ginger flavoured pulled milk tea).

While we indulged in our idiosyncrasies, Chitra introduced us to Dobble, a fun and clever card game that can be played anywhere, anytime and doesn’t take up much luggage space or weight.

Guesthouse meals

That night, we had our first taste of traditional Albanian cuisine – hearty, homemade meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Starting with the ever present bread and cheese, dishes served include yoghurt, tomato / cucumber salad, peppers, corn cake, rice and beef with potatoes.

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THETH – an Area of outstanding natural beauty

Theth is a traditional village that sits deep at the heart of the Albanian Alps. Situated at the end of a winding mountain road, Theth is a collection of guesthouses, cabins, and campgrounds spread out across the Shala valley, surrounded by towering, jagged peaks and vertiginous rock-face.

Inaccessible during the winter months, the small summer village of Theth is seeing a boom in tourists arrivals thanks to the Peaks of the Balkans Trail. Up until 2021, Theth was only accessible by 4×4 off-road vehicles. A paved road now connects Theth to Shkoder, a scenic 3 hour drive.

The Church of Theth

This incredibly picturesque grey-tile roofed church sits in the middle of an open meadow, surrounded by towering mountain peaks and wildflowers.

Displaying traditional Albanian architecture characteristics of stone construction and simple design, this stone-built church has a cross-shaped plan with a central dome.

Originally built in 1892, it first served as a school for the village children, before functioning as a hospital during the communist era. After the collapse of this regime in 1990, the families in Theth helped to finance its reconstruction on the foundations of the old church.