From Tirana, it was an easy 2-hour bus journey to Shkodër – one of three starting points to the Peaks of the Balkans (POB). After a late lunch, we had the rest of the afternoon to sightsee Shkodër, ahead of our 10-day POB hike.
Rozafa Castle sits on a triangular hilltop that overlooks the confluence of the Buna, Drin, and Kiri rivers. The fortress’ elevated position at 130m is not just strategic but also highly defensible as the flanks of the hill are very steep and rocky up to the walls. It is also almost completely surrounded by water.
That said, this ancient stronghold has a rich history of invaders & conquerors which accounts for the diverse architectural styles (Illyrian, Roman/Byzantine/Venetian, Ottoman) dating back to the 4th century.
4,000-year-old castle…
The castle consists of three walled enclosures, each with different levels of protection. Scattered within the three courtyards are remnants of a gunpowder warehouse, water cisterns and the ruins of a catholic church, which was later converted into a mosque.
Today, Rozafa Castle is a must-see destination that promises unrivalled panoramas, ancient ruins, and legendary tales.
3 SEPTEMBER 2024
The taxi driver dropped us at the fortress road, and promised to pick us up from this same spot 2 hours later.
The fortress road is steeper than it looks. At the top, after getting entry tickets at 4EUR each, we got our first sprawling view of farmlands, river and Shkodër city backdropped against the Albanian Alps.
The curved wall was an ideal stop for the first of many panorama shots before soldiering on up to the main entrance (right pic).
The Barbican (left pic) is the main fortified entrance to Rozafa Castle. From there, a series of gates lead to the massive outer wall (right pic).
Spotting stairs to guard paths (at several places) we took note of the locations as the plan was to climb to the outer walls to enjoy the views over the city and the lake.
Layout & function
The fortress is divided into three courtyards, separated by security walls with gates between them.
C1 – primary line of defense
C2 – military barracks (living / sleeping quarters)
C3 – last line of defense (garrison leader’s residence)
First courtyard (C1)
After passing through a covered L-shaped corridor, we emerged onto the first courtyard. Built between 1407-1416, the fortified courtyard is a system of ramparts with sharp curves occupying the eastern part of the castle. F
GHJKJHfghjkllghjkJHfghjkllgsssssshGGImage Credit : Elite Travel Albania
On our right, a quadrangular tower 10 meters wide and 20 meters long looms skywards. The lower floor is covered with a cylindrical vault running from the entrance.
4th-century Illyrian wall
This section of the wall is the oldest structure in the castle grounds.
Built using local stone, it follows the natural contours of the hill.
Bottom pic : Steps leading up to Balshaj Tower
Excellent views across the city with Buna river in the foreground from Balshaj Tower.
We passed through another gate and found ourselves in the second courtyard.
Second courtyard (C2)
Separated from the first courtyard by a wall without towers, the second courtyard occupies the central and largest part of the castle. The fortifications preserved to-date are from the Venetian period – four water cisterns (collect & store water from circular wells), a warehouse, a prison and a church-mosque.
St Stephen’s Cathedral / Fatih Sultan Mehmet Mosque
The ruins of a medieval church dedicated to St Stephen immediately caught our attention.
The cathedral was built within the castle grounds in the 13th century and enlarged in the 14th and 15th centuries while under Venetian rule.
Ottoman Rule (16th -19th centuries )
In 1685, the Ottomans built over the remains of the St. Stephen’s Cathedral, transforming it to the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Mosque. A minaret was built on the southern side of the former cathedral.
Today, it is Shkodër’s few remaining buildings from the Middle Ages and the only mosque that partially survived dictator Enver Hoxha’s repression against clerics, believers and places of worships.
Over 2,200 churches, mosques and every religious building in every corner of Albania were destroyed. Hoxha’s atrocities are far reaching and keeps popping out throughout our travels 😔
Under Ottoman rule, the middle courtyard was used as military barracks.
New defensive structures were built into battlements and turrets for better protection against invaders and natural elements.
The church became a mosque while the building next to it probably served as a prison.
Third courtyard (C3)
Located on the highest part of the hill, the third and smallest courtyard holds a three-storey Venetian building which served as the residence of the Venetian ruler/governor, an Ottoman arsenal and several rooms connected to a circular tower.
At the Big Tower of Bushatllij, I couldn’t resist climbing up and walking along the top of the wall. Looking down from this unrivalled vantage point can be scary, as it is very high and exposed. I stood well back from the edge, braced myself against the strong wind to capture some dramatic shots from this precarious perch.
Standing at an imposing 130m atop a rocky hill, it would be difficult for invaders to launch successful assaults. The thick stone walls were built to withstand heavy blows while under siege or artillery bombardment.
Designed for maximum security, densely packed rectangular protrusions (instead of towers) line the outer walls, leaving narrow gaps in between.
There are also secret passageways chiseled into the rocks, leading to hidden exits on the slopes of the hill.
Our exploration led us down a spiral stone staircase, followed by a short crawl through a low tunnel, to emerge into a hidden chamber.
Above ground again, a wall separates the public area and the government area of the castle.
The governor’s house is now the Castle of Shkodër Museum. Despite being plundered during the 1997 unrest, the museum has a worthy exhibit of Ottoman weapons, coins, and various everyday objects from the Illyrian era.
NB. A separate entrance fee applies.
Next to the Museum is a cafe. We treated ourselves to ice cream to cool off on a hot afternoon.
Panoramic Views
Another engrossing activity for me was the freedom to wander about to explore every nook and cranny. Other than one area that was off-limits, scrambling up the top of the tower, walls, underground passages are highly recommended.
I strongly urge you to do the perimeter walk (time permitting) for sweeping landscapes of the city, mountains, lake and rivers from different viewpoints.
A aaaCity & Lake Shkodër
C aaaCastle
E aaaDrin River
B aaaBuna River & Lake Shkodër
D aaaConfluence of rivers Drin, Kiri & Buna
F aaaLowlands of NenShkodër
Exploring the grounds
The grounds are extensive, featuring ancient ruins, structures and a maze of narrow passageways that crisscross the fortress.
A sublime silhouette of the Venetian residence (centre) and the cathedral (right) at 5.30pm.
A slow walk along the perimeter wall offers the best views of the city with a mountain range as backdrop, Lake Shkodër, farmlands and the meandering three rivers Buna, Drin, and Kiri.
This stretch of wall has a mix of arched / square openings of various sizes. Facing south, it offers very picturesque glimpses of the Drin and Kiri rivers and the lone Lead Mosque.
Another notable mention is the location of the ancient and medieval city of Shkodër that lies immediately south, nestled between the hill and the confluence of Buna and Drin.
Outer Walls
Back at the first courtyard, just before the main gate, we headed up the guard steps, ducked under an archway and discovered a whole new perspective of the castle’s defense system.
The towers have circular and quadrangular shapes, at a height of 12-16 meters.
They are higher on the outer side and consist of a vaulted floor and terraces with crenellated parapets.
Strolling along the wall walk, it is easy to imagine sentries patrolling day and night, keeping watch against invaders.
The high sheer wall with no handholds looks impregnable.
Ancient Origins
Illyrian Period (Pre-Roman): It was first settled by the Illyrians, an ancient tribe who chose the location for its great views over the Drin River and valleys. It was captured in 167 BC by the Romans.
Roman and Byzantine Periods: The Romans expanded and fortified the castle, and later passed it down to the Byzantine Empire.
Venetian Control (1396-1479): The Venetians recognized its strategic importance, fortifying it further with upgrades, building new gates and towers. They also built a Catholic church.
Ottoman Period (1479-1912): After two fierce sieges, the Ottomans captured and adapted the castle for military and city administration purposes until 1865, thereafter for the garrison only. The church was converted to a mosque, a minaret was added to it.
First Balkan War (1912) : Sieged by Montenegrin troops.
Italian Invasion (1939) : Heavily damaged, the ruined castle was abandoned soon afterward.
Rozafa’s Story
Legend has it that the wife of one of the three brothers tasked with building the castle walls was buried within the structure to keep it from collapsing. Her name was Rozafa.
She agreed to be walled up alive, under the condition that her right breast (to nurse), eye (to watch over), hand (to caress), and foot (to rock) be left free to care for her infant son.
The Legend of Rozafa is a poignant story of sacrifice, loyalty, and maternal love.
A statue of an immured Rozafa can be viewed at the Castle of Shkodër Museum
Image Credit : Betim Konjuhi
Perched on a rocky hill overlooking the confluence of the Buna and Drin rivers, Rozafa Castle is one of Albania’s most iconic historical landmarks and a must-visit site in Shkodër. With roots tracing back to the Illyrian era, its massive stone walls, still largely intact, offer sweeping panoramic views of the city, Lake Shkodër, and the surrounding Albanian Alps—making it not just a site of historical interest, but also a photographer’s dream. Rozafa Castle is located about 4 km south of Shkodër city center and is easily reachable by car, bicycle, or on foot.
Shkodër City
Shkodër is located in the northwestern part of Albania, near the border with Montenegro. It has a rich history that dates back to ancient times, characterised by stunning architecture, picturesque streets, and lively cultural scene.
Rruga Kolë Idromeno
Our hotel was conveniently located in the heart of the city at Kolë Idromeno Street. This pedestrian boulevard is filled with many cute, hip boutiques, cafes, restaurants, bars, ice cream parlors, and brightly coloured shops.
Lined with historic buildings, the old streets in Shkodër showcase colourful houses with Venetian and Austro-Hungarian influences.
There are squares and patios everywhere along the cobblestoned street, all with very inviting outdoor seating, ideal for sipping coffee while watching the world go by.
We were spoilt for choice come mealtime, indulging in Albanian fare, pizza/ pasta, washed down with dessert.
At night, there’s a whole new vibe as locals and tourists come out in full force.
Ebu Bekr Mosque
Located at the end of a walkway from the Hotel Colosseo, the Ebu Bekr Mosque features a large central dome and two minarets, with an architectural style that blends traditional Islamic design with modern elements.
Inspired by Ottoman mosques dating from the 16th century, it was rebuilt from 1994 to 1995, on the site of the old Fushë Çela Mosque, which was demolished during the Communist era.
Located in the northwestern part of Albania, near the border with Montenegro, the city of Shkodër is surrounded by lakes, rivers, and mountains. To the west is Lake Shkodër - the largest lake in the Balkan Peninsula (shared by both Albania and Montenegro), while the Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps) rise majestically on the eastern side. The Drin River flows through the city, dividing it into two parts.
This enviable position creates a unique natural setting that appeals to residents, visitors and nature lovers. In addition to exploring the stunning landscapes, Shkodër is popular for outdoor activities such as boating, fishing, hiking and swimming.
Pre POB Itinerary
2 September – Bunk’Art Museums, Tirana & Tujani Peak, Dajti National Park
3 September – Tirana City Walk & Rozafa Castle, Shkoder
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